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How To Build a $500 Gaming PC in 2018

2018-02-18
the k63 wireless mechanical gaming keyboard from corsair can connect your computer via ultra-fast one-millisecond 2.4 gigahertz wireless technology or low latency bluetooth and features perky blue leds 15 hours of gameplay on a single charge and genuine Cherry MX switches its lap board ready to so click the sponsor link in the description for more information hey guys how's it go and welcome to Pauls hardware this is my first how to build a computer video for 2018 its 2018 and if you want to build a computer to play some video games or just to build your own computer because it's a lot of fun you've come to the right place this is a beginner's guide so I'm going to be walking you through everything step by step starting with actually choosing the parts to put into your new computer the part that I'm featuring today is AMD's newest apu that's accelerated processing unit that includes a cpu as well as a GPU which is your graphics card as well as your central processor in the same unit which means you don't have to buy a graphics card which right now is a very good thing because graphics cards are very expensive before I get too far ahead of myself though let's start off by running down all the parts that I'm going to be using in today's build so there are 8 main components to a computer or a desktop computer that you're going to build yourself starting with what holds everything together that's right over here and that's the motherboard now this is a mini ITX motherboard which means it's very small form-factor is important the form factor of your motherboard mini ITX in this case is going to impact what case you choose so if you want something small mini ITX is a way to go for the motherboard and we're going to be choosing a mini ITX case here in just a while as well you want to make sure that the sockets at the center here is compatible with your processors so the socket were using today is AMD's a m4 socket and that is of course compatible with our AMD Rison 320 200 g apu just going to slot him right there you've also got some other slots in here for memory for example over on this side as well as places to plug in power as well as some connectors for storage and we'll get into that as we actually start to build next up is our processors so this here is our 2200 g from AMD and again this is both a quad core cpu as well as a graphics card not a graphics card but your graphics capabilities are integrated into that as well this is a pga or pin grid array processor so there's a bunch of little pins on the bottom and that's what slots into the socket on the mother and they're very delicate so they can be slightly bent if you want to try not to touch them with your fingers if you can if you do bend them don't worry they can be bent back into place but it's best just to be really careful with that so you don't end up actually bending them now your processor is going to warm up when it actually is in use so it's gonna want to be able to stay cool for that you're gonna need a CPU cooler aim D includes a CPU cooler this is called the wraith stealth in the box so you can use this and that's what we're going to be using today to keep the price down because $99 for the 2200 g plus a cooler hey that's a pretty good deal and you get a graphics card in there as well you're also going to need some storage for your system and we have a couple different options for that here these are both SSDs or solid-state drives you can also use a mechanical drive although mechanical drives are a bit slower I typically only recommend those for mass storage right now these are smaller so here is going to be your budget-friendly option this is a 240 gig SSD and this is typically what I recommend for anyone who's building a new system 240 gigs will give you enough space for your operating system as well as some apps and games and it's going to be nice and fast to keep your system very responsive might not be the same drive I have listed done in the video's description today so just check down there I'll have a solid 240 gig ish drive that you can buy that would get the job done for you now if you want to upgrade and get yourself a lot faster storage this is not necessary but any stretch for today but the next generation of SSDs are gonna look kind of like this kinda like a stick a gun but this is an MDOT - Drive which refers to the actual connector here and the cool thing about that is it can actually mount directly to your motherboard so this motherboard has an m2 slot on the bottom it is also an nvme connection so you want to double check and make sure that your motherboard has nvme support this would allow us to just connect that right there give us some really fast storage and of course I would need to cinch it down with the little screw right there but these are of course much more expensive so if you're just trying to get yourself up and running you're not going to suffer too much or in fact at all really when it comes to practical performance by going with a more normal SATA SSD like this one but just wanted to point out that m2 drives are an option as well next up is going to be memory and the memory that we're using today was specifically chosen so it can be compatible with our APU and our motherboards so my recommendation for memory is first off brace yourself because memory places just like GPU praise they're very high right now it might be expensive for you to get your memory but double-check this compatibility support list from your motherboard manufacturer and then choose memory that's 29:33 as far as the speed goes or faster this is 3200 speed but since your graphics is going to be using this memory as well you want to make sure you have at least decent speed there 29:33 is kind of my starting off points and as always you can double check your motherboards compatibility list for memory to make sure that whatever you get is going to slot into the motherboard and just work and you want have to mess around with a bunch of settings or that kind of thing so that's four of our main components motherboard CPU storage memory the remaining three are graphics card case and power supplies so for graphics card I have one right here it is a Vega 56 and let me just tell you guys the graphics card prices are really really really expensive right now but that is why we're not going to be using one in today's build and that is one of the advantages that you get with an APU now you're not going to get the same amount of graphics card performance out of the APU as you would with a discrete graphics card but the nice thing is you can use this system for now and then wait and once graphics card prices hopefully come down you've got a PCI Express by 16 slot down here at the bottom you can buy a graphics card slot it into this motherboard and that is what we call an upgrade path now the last two components are power supply and case and I saved them for last one because they tend to have a little bit less of an impact on the actual performance of your system so any reasonable power supply is going to be 80 plus bronze rated or better and there's lots of options out there I believe the one we're going to be using today is an EVGA this is an older one so I'm just using that for an example and then the last thing we're missing is a case so like I already mentioned Mini ITX is the form factor of our motherboard we want a mini ITX case to go along with that and a case is where you can really kind of make your choice when it comes to aesthetics because cases often are an aesthetic choice people choose cases that they think look pretty if they're going to have their computer brand their their computer up on their desk or something like that it should also be functional enough so it should have airflow and I think for today I'm gonna do things a little bit differently we're gonna take a quick field trip over to Fry's and I'm going to see what mini ITX cases they have there and I'll pick one that I think looks good case in point we decided to quickly stop and check the graphics card supply here at Fry's and it looks like they're pretty much sold out so the 1080 T eyes would be down there for about a thousand dollars here's where they're selling GTX 1060 s for $400 and down here we have a few gt7 30s and a GT 1030 that are in stock so if you're looking for a mid range or high end graphics card they're really nowhere to be found right now which is why an APU is actually a pretty good choice hopefully prices will drop at some point in the future and then if you're building the system that I'm talking about today you can buy a reasonably priced graphics card if they ever come back and stock and then drop it into the system we're putting together let's check out cases though this is the core v1 and it is a mini ITX case and I have actually never built in it so I think this will get the job done alright guys we're back from Fry's we had some lunch and now we're ready to build so the case we decided on was the core v1 this is from thermaltake it's a 50 dollar case and it was actually one of the only mini ITX cases that they had their fries there are a few other ones but they're crappy so this is when we decided on parts list of course is in the video subscription again and I've gone ahead and taken everything here and priced everything and if you exclude the memory the parts list we're looking at right now is about three hundred and sixty-five dollars now the memory if you get a 16 gig kit and you want fast memory and you want something that's compatible with Rison is gonna cost about two hundred dollars right now which is pretty expensive you can get a single eight gig kit a gig it stick instead which will sort of tide you over you can get by for about a hundred dollars so ultimately this entire system build is going to cost you somewhere between four hundred and seventy five and five hundred and seventy five dollars depending on how much memory you put in it beyond the memory though we also have a power supply of course I've just gone with the cooler master v6 50 in the parts list I've actually chosen a 550 watt 80 plus bronze rated power supply from Corsair that's about fifty dollars that will get you buy just fine I'm using this one because what I have on hand beyond that though all the rest of the parts are the same ones that I've listed off so it is time to get building if you're building at home you're pretty much only going to need one key piece of hardware technology and that is a screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver now we might be using a few other things as I go on here so I'll tell you guys those things as I move forward with them but for the time being we're gonna go ahead and start by preparing the motherboard and I'm already bringing in another piece of equipment and that is just a soft rubber mats try to build on a non conductive surface wood works just fine the cardboard box is just fine just don't build on a metal surface like a table or something like that getting our motherboard unpacked and we're gonna have inside the motherboard itself of course and we're gonna have a few accessories that we want to keep ready to use this is the i/o shield didn't put out put shield and that kind of lines up with the back of the motherboard we'll install that in the case before we put the motherboard in we're going to need a single serial ata cable and that is to connect up our SSD and then we're also going to need the Wi-Fi adapter since this motherboard includes Wi-Fi this is the antenna and that's just so once we actually get the system up and running we can connect that up in order to connect it to Wi-Fi download windows and windows updates and all that good stuff next one box our processor I've already used this one which is why the seal is broken but I repacked it to give you guys the exact same experience inside we have our processor itself and our heat sink fan this is the Wraith spire heat sink fan and apart from the heat sink fan itself you're gonna definitely need to have some thermal paste now if you're buying this brand new you'll have some thermal paste to pre apply it on the bottom of the race spire cooler so that's what we're gonna use today it's already pre applied so you're not to worry about it just don't touch it before you install the processor and get the heat sink fan installed as well next up our CPU and that comes in a little clamshell keeps it protected until you're ready to install this probably keep it in here and again bear in mind there are a bunch of pins on the bottom of the CPU and those are fairly delicate so you don't want to bend those or anything like that the CPU itself can be handled by the edges most ideally you want to minimize contact with the top here as well as the pins on the bottom and that's simply to keep oils from your fingers too getting all over it and that kind of thing but all we're going to really be paying attention to is the orientation of the pins of course and then you're going to look at the corner and I'm one corner here you actually have a tiny little golden triangle that golden triangle is very important so keep an eye where that golden triangle is and then take a look at your am-4 socket down here on the motherboard itself you're gonna have a little lever arm on the side so just pull that out ever so slightly and lift it up that will open the sockets and it's ready for the cpu now take the gold triangle the CPU line it up with a triangle that's sort of in the edge of the sockets so with the two corners lined up so they're in the same corner just set the CPU straight down on top of the socket and it'll drop down into place this is what is known as a zero insertion force socket which means you don't need to press down on that at all if it doesn't drop in for you like mine did just lift it up flip it over and take a gander at the pins on the underneath you can look at him from from the edge just to make sure they're all straight if they're not straights I'll link a video where I go over some basic tips on actually correcting that and straightening out some motherboard pins but it should just drop in like that and if it does go ahead and lower that little lever arm that will hold it in place it's not 100% secure but it's secure enough for now for us to move on to the next step which is to get the actual heat sink fan ready to bounce okay I've added yet another little piece of hardware here and that is just a electric screwdriver I'm just cheating a little bit this mount for the m4 socket will actually come with four screws and a couple of old plastic retention brackets and these are actually made for the older style of heatsink bands that AMD used to make and even though they don't make that style anymore they still have left that on there those actually screw into a backplate piece so if I look the motherboard up you can see that back plate and that backplate is what's we're gonna install the heat sink fan to so that should stay in place but bear in mind there's nothing holding it there right now so you might have to kind of position it there as you mounts the heatsink fan if you lay everything flat it should line up just as we're looking at right now so it's a mount or heat sink fan again pretty much it's gonna line up the screws with where they go there and bear in mind you've got a little cable coming off the side of this and that is to plug in the fan so you should kind of reality check here as well and make sure where you're gonna plug that in it should be labeled as CPU fan header on this particular motherboard is located right over here a little gray plug so just bear in mind you're going to need to route the cable over to that and make sure you have enough cable lengths in order to do that so I've just set the heat sink fan on top four screws have lined up I'm going to start by just giving a couple turns to each screw to get it threaded onto that backplate behind the motherboard you don't want to tighten one corner down before you start the other screws that'll make it harder to get the other screws started in the threading on the backplate and it will also potentially puts disproportionate force on one corner of the CPU which isn't a huge deal but something you should watch out for once you've got them started you can go ahead and go with opposite corners one at a time and you can tighten each one down and you can tighten those down tight not too tight but they can be pretty snug on there beyond that we just got our cable hanging off there and I'm just going to wrap that around and plug it in to the CPU fan header and the other thing we can do right now well we've got the motherboard out and easily accessible is install our system memory this is G scale flare X memory which is specifically made for Rison resin processors can occasionally be finicky with what memory you connect to connect up to it a lot of most memory is compatible but running at higher frequencies can be more challenging so g.skill specifically made this memory to be compatible with this platform all you need to do it install the memory though as I've been talking and not explaining what I'm doing is make sure that you have this central notch here lined up with the central notch on the memory slot it is slightly offset so they only go in one way so just double check that to make sure that it is lining up properly each edge will fit into the slot on either side and it'll kind of sit like that and then you just need to push firmly down on both sides you know kind a pin to place it gives a very satisfying snap and these little catches on the side will pop up and hold it in so our motherboard is pretty much good to go we're going to set this aside and start working on the case so once you've got your case out of the box you know give it a once-over make sure everything is not damaged this case is very small very boxy but you're basically going to have two side panels on either side typically those are held on by thumb screws in the back so you can just unscrew those to pop up the side panels to access the interior and as far as the layout goes the power supply is going to go down here in the very bottom the motherboard will actually sit flat in the central area and then everything else kind of goes on top of it there so first thing that you'll want to do is get rid of these thumb screws and start disassembling the case so we can access the interior so I've removed all of our side panel pieces one thing I will say is if your side panels have clear plexiglass like this they'll usually have plastic over the top of it just to keep it from getting scratched up during shipping these are really really easy to scratch I recommend leaving that plastic on until the system is all put together peel it off at the very end as sort of the finished product type thing the things you're gonna want to keep in mind are that almost every case is gonna come with a set of accessories like this typically it will have a manual and if it's a case that's a unique design you might want to double check there to see if anything mounts in a unique or strange fashion you're also gonna have lots of screws so the screws that you'll mount your motherboard with screws that you'll mount additional hard drives with or additional SSDs you might have some standoffs that are especially made for mechanical hard drives and that kind of thing and then often a set of zip ties and these are just really handle handy for cable management beyond that you're gonna have a set of cables that come out and these are your front panel connectors so you're gonna have one group that is the most pain in the ass part of building a computer this is what's going to control your actual power switch to turn the system on and off reset switch and LED lights for your hard drive activity and your power activity you also have this plug which is known as HD audio this will allow you to have a mic and headphone jack connected up at the front of your case this case has a single fan so it is connected via this three pin fan header finally you have a USB 3.0 header these are fairly large and bulky but if you want USB 3.0 ports on the front of your case this is the header that you will use there's a newer header beyond this that's called the USB 3.1 header that is the difference so keep that in mind there's a USB 3.0 and a 3.1 if you want 3.1 make sure your case has that header and your motherboard has a header that's pretty new though so you won't see those too often yet oh and final thing to point out and this is just unique to this case is that aside from the two side panels and top panel I've removed there's a couple thumb screws here that also allowed me to remove this bottom piece and that's what I'm going to need to remove to access the bottom chamber in order to install the power supply also bear in mind there is a dust filter down here so it's a little plastic and and I gotta work to get it off but that will go just beneath your power supplies so that as it is running expand to pull air in it'll suck up dust right there and you can pull that off in order to clean having dust filtration and your computer is always always nice to have so the power supply supply is power and we're gonna need to install this I like to get this installed first because this usually has the bulk of the cables and this is a fully modular power supply so all the cables that plug into the computer are actually going to go into these plugs right here and all of those cables are included in the packaging and they're all separate so the cables that we're going to need for this build is a couple for the motherboards so we're going to need a 24 pin main power connector for the motherboard that's that one right there and there's the corresponding plug on the motherboard bear in mind there's a catch on one side of the plug and there's a little catch on one side as a plug on the motherboard too so it will actually stay connected when you plug it in like so hey that went in pretty easy and then there's one other power plug on the motherboard this is what is known as EPS power supplemental CPU power on this particular board it's tucked away kind of in not the most convenient position but it's right up there and this will sometimes you have 4 pin plug and sometimes it'll be an 8 pin plug depending on how much power you have going to the processor so on the power supply side you might have a split plug like this an eight and an eight but they just fit in here side by side and plug in like that now for the record I'm plugging this stuff in outside of the case just to demonstrate it right here I'm actually gonna unplug these when I install the power supply right now now aside from your main 24 pin which is going to connect up right there and your supplemental CPU power which is going to connect up right there you might also have what is known as pci express graphics 8 pin or 6 pin PCI Express graphics those will also connect up to these same 8 pin plugs right here that the CPU plug connects to just bear in mind that the other side of the plug is different so these are typically labeled PCI Express graphics they're usually a six pin plug and then have an optional two pin pins on the other end that you can detach depending on the configuration of your graphics card since these are for graphics cards and we do not have a graphics card in this build we do not need this cable so we're not gonna use it but I just wanted to point it out to you guys in case you are installing a graphics card in your system beyond that we have peripheral cables hard SATA cables there's four of those connectors on this power supply again bear in mind this is modular so the plugs and the power supply side might not look the same depending on the power supply that you're using but the other side's decides that plug into the motherboard and your drive should always look the same so these are SATA power plugs those will correspond with the SATA power plug on your SSD or your hard drive and they do have a slight little L shape to them so make sure that you plug them in the right way and with that L shape it's pretty impossible to plug them in wrong but bear in mind that the plugs are a little delicate so make sure that you reality check that that you're putting it in the correct way beyond that next to there you have a data connector and that's where your SATA cable will go since we're already showing this I might as well also show the SATA cable there it is right there one end connects up to your hard drive or SSD like that and then the other end of that SATA cable would plug into your motherboard finally the last peripheral connector you might spot is this little four pin guy this is typically referred to as a molex plug and these are a little bit older so you might not encounter them but you will see them sometimes for case fan connection connecting up a pump for an all-in-one liquid cooler or something like that just bear in mind that you might have an additional plug set in your modular power supply kits that allows you to connect up those connectors but they won't always be needed just depends on what hardware you have in your system all right guys I've pretty much laid out everything as far as the parts and how everything is connected not we have to do is get it all installed in the case and then of course plug in those plugs into the plugs I just showed you that they plug into I'm going to start off with the power supply just because that goes in the bottom down here and for that purpose I've just flipped the case over entirely and we'll drop that and like so you can put your fan on your power supply facing down or facing up I usually try to face it to where there is a dust filter since there's a dust filter right there that's the way I'm going to face this at this point since I already showed you which modular cables we need and we have easy access to the bottom of the power supply I'm going to go ahead and connect those up and now a move that I will probably come to regret which is to reinstall this bottom piece I probably won't need to access it down there again but you know if things get tight I can always pull this back off I've rounded all these cables up here have up they're not where they need to be but they're up here so I can see what's what and then at the bottom here is kind of where your motherboard will go and there are four mounting points for this one two three and four bear in mind since this is a mini ITX build it's a very small if you're using a larger like a micro ATX or a full-size ATX case you might have five six seven eight or nine standoff points but make sure you have standoffs or they raised mounting points there you do not want to mount the motherboard directly to the case forgetting standoffs is something I don't know how common it is but it's definitely something you want to avoid because it can damage your hardware if it's not done properly remember the i/o shield that lines up with the inputs and outputs on the back of the motherboard so just like that but it's got to go in the case and for the case make sure this little knockout part right here if you line that up and apply pressure from the inside it should pop into place depending on the quality of your i/o shield sometimes this can be challenging especially if the metal is flexing or that kind of thing use the butt of a screwdriver from the inside to push it into place if you have any trouble now that that is installed we shall take our pre-prepared motherboard with the CPU and heat sink fan and memory already installed take that IO and line it up with the i/o shield that you just also installed and then your four mounting points should line up with the four holes in your mini ITX motherboard if you're looking at the screws that came with your case you might notice that some have this kind of finer thread like on the right here and some has the kind of reference thread like on the left here the standoffs for your motherboard may be either one so it's good to reality check beforehand I actually got it right on the first try it was the rough thread you wouldn't see 6:32 okay one more piece of hardware to put in the case and then we just get a plug everything in this is a 2.5 inch drive so most SSDs are gonna be 2.5 inch drives like this one unless you get an MDOT to like I should you guys at the beginning and then you might have larger drives 3.5 inch drives here's an example of one of those these are much bigger and they're usually mechanical drives and they are they spin and they make noise and stuff like that if you have one of those it will be able to slot into a 3.5 inch drive mount and this case happens to have two of those these are held on by a little thumb screw so it's the touch of finagling I was able to remove that tray and this tray would be able to support a 3.5 inch drive like that one and then sometimes the drives will mount through the sides and if you're using a spinning drive like this one you'd probably want to make use of these little these little rubber grommets here then screw the drive in through that that will provide a little bit of dampening for the for the noise and a spinning mechanical hard drive might make or if you don't want to worry about your system making any noise with spinning mechanical hard drives just go with all SSDs typically an SSD can mount to that same tray it's also got mounts through the bottom so we're gonna do that I mentioned they find thread and the thick thread this is where that fine threaded the screw is going to go this is a m3 it took me a sec but it cut thing so there's our last piece of hardware that needed to be mounted now mounted so guys at this point I'm gonna go ahead and start plugging stuff in but for those of you who might be building a system like this with a graphics card I wanted to point out that this is where you would install the graphics card and it would go in this slots down here at the bottom this is known as a PCI Express graphics by 16 slots it would basically line up like that you'd slot in the PCI Express graphics slot down there at the bottom you're also of course going to need to remove these two little brackets here at the back and then there's a usually some mounting mechanism at the top that will hold that all in place then of course just connect up your PCI Express graphic power to that and you'd be all set to go but again we're not using a graphics card today so we don't need to worry about that so let's begin power plugs 24-pin there we go any excess cable I'm just going to kind of feedback and try to tuck down here into this bottom section bottom section is our cable junk area where we will put as much extra cable junk as possible we also have the need for a SATA power connector over here for the SSD so I'll go ahead and plug that in well we're here again let's go ahead and connect up the SSDs data connection via our little SATA cable here little clasp pop into place so we now have power and data going to the SSD power is connected to the power supply data cable from SSD here to the plug on the motherboard that is directly behind it we also have that's awkwardly placed 8-pin Supplemental CPU power next is our HD audio cable this plugs in right up here kind of near where that CPU power connector was all of these connectors on the motherboard are all labeled on the motherboard itself but the motherboard manual is actually a really really good resource to go to if you're not positive where the actual plugs might plug into other than that we just have the USB three and this extra fan plug for our front intake fan so I mentioned how much I hate front panel connectors they're always really annoying these are if you can see they're kind of color-coded right there the nine are so pins that I'm sort of trying to point towards that's really challenging anyway they're all right there they're all labeled and I'm going to attempt to plug pinning making this even more difficult is the fact that some of them are labeled plus or minus positive or negative the LEDs power LED and hard drive LED are the only pins you need to worry about that plus/minus on everything else doesn't matter if it's plugged in one way or the eddy all right those front panel connectors sure we're annoying that as you may be can see most of the cables going over to plug into the motherboard are kind of in this area right here beyond that you will probably notice kind of a rat's nest of cables that's just down here in the fronts up in front of the power supply that's not a big deal because most of the air is coming in from the front of this front of the case and it's going to be flowing up here and over most of your components that you're worried about beyond that I can go ahead and start putting the panels back on so here's the top panel and if you're a superstitious person then you should not put this final side panel back on leave at least one side panel off until you've started the system up make sure it's up and running and now as far as I can tell this computer is all put together so I'm gonna flip the switch on on a power supply in the back and then I will test the power switch right up in the front fans spin up I've got an LED that's lit up on the side right here as well and if you happen to have any LEDs that are part of your motherboard for example like my a be 350 n Wi-Fi motherboard from gigabyte has some red LEDs on it you should see those light up as well fans spinning though that's always a good thing and that's pretty much all there is to it when it comes to assembling a computer like this I will say there's one last part I want to do right here I am now allowed to do this and with that we have a functional gaming PC and we didn't even have to spend $1000 on a $250 graphics card so that's pretty nice I like that also really like the fact that you could pop in a discrete graphics card to this system and upgrade it if they become more affordable in the future I also like the fact that since this is an AM 4 chipset and motherboard right now we've got a quad core in there there's eight core like 1800 X CPUs available for this same platform so you could upgrade in the future to a system with a discrete graphics card and an 8 core CPU with 16 threads which would give you a ton of performance for gaming gaming and streaming doing video editing at the same time so a lot of versatility and flexibility in this system as well as this platform which is why I was pretty excited that AMD was actually bringing these Raven Ridge ap use to market especially learning that the 2200 G is only $99 for the CPU and the GPU together in one but guys if you enjoyed this video definitely hit the thumbs up button if you're at a loss for what to do next I will link my first 5 to do with a new pc build in this video's description that will take you to the next steps of getting Windows loaded making sure your BIOS is set up correctly making sure any drives that you add on there set up properly as well and there's a follow-up video where you can work on setting up steam and getting your games loaded and that sort of thing - thank you so much for watching this video though guys share it with your friends if you think that they would like to build a new computer like this as well and of course hit that thumbs up button on the way out if you enjoyed it we'll see you guys in the next video
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