Gadgetory

the master key series of mechanical keyboards from Coolermaster features genuine Cherry MX switches and the flexibility of choice whether you want small medium or large you can pick your size and pick your color with RGB and clear white LED backlighting options click the sponsor link in the description for more information what's up guys welcome back to Pauls hardware today I'm doing a how to build a computer video to celebrate the launch of Rison 3 Andy has had a lot of success and actually the PC market place's and very exciting this year because of Andy's launch of Rison they started with rising 7 then rising 5 now we have rising 3 which our quad-core CPUs that don't have SMT or simultaneous multi-threading so you do get 4 cores you just don't get 4 course in a threads like you get with the rise in 5 series so they seem to be very good price to performance options because the right-hand 3 1300 X only cops about $130 and then the rise in 3 1200 only costs $109 both of them are quad core and both of them are unlocked for overclocking on my personal opinion you should pretty much ignore the rise in 3 1300 X which ships at a frequency of 3.5 gigahertz base and 3.7 gigahertz turbo the 1200 is clocked lower it has a 3.1 gigahertz base and a 3.4 gigahertz turbo but since both of these are unlocked for overclocking just take that are 3 1200 and such at same frequency as the RF 3 1300 X and then you have an r3 1300 x4 20 bucks plus let me to quickly go over choosing parts to build a budget gaming computer because that's very important in making sure you choose the parts that are compatible as well as it will fit within budget and then of course I will be diving into an actual tutorial going over step-by-step the process for building the system that I have laid out here today one final note before I get into choosing the parts is that I actually built most of this system already and a live stream with a risin 5 CPU just a couple months back so I'll post the link to that video in the description if you watch more of a full length walkthrough of the build process versus this video which is hopefully going to be a little bit shorter than that one with so to build a desktop gaming computer right now you basically need seven to put into the actual desktop computer and those are right here and I write the parts that you also need just to actually use that computer or here in my left like a monitor a keyboard and a mouse as well as probably an internet connection and that sort of thing I'm not going to be focusing on those today so the price that I'm talking about is going to be just for these core components for the build also you might need a Windows 10 installation key and for that you can check out my windows 10 for $20 it's more like 30 bucks now I'll link that video in the description as well as far as the seven components for a desktop gaming computer you're going to need a processor of course you will need a motherboard that's - you will need system memory that's three you will need system storage that is four you will need a power supply that is five you'll need a case that six and then since we're talking about a gaming computer you will need a graphics card as well that is seven and actually with the rise in series of CPUs you need a graphics card in order to get video out because these CPUs don't have graphics built into them like the Intel CPUs do I haven't see builds that are aimed at a specific price and I actually often do that myself since every month at the beginning of the month I do a couple parts lists for people who are trying to choose the parts for their computer today I'm not necessarily focusing so much on the price although from the title of the video title is about a five hundred twenty-five dollar system that I thought I'm showing you guys how to put together but I wanted to go about choosing everything a little bit more practically so we already know that we're going to be using a rise in three CPU and we'll say that we're going to be using the rise in three 1200 which cost one hundred and ten dollars well there's our baseline price one hundred and ten bucks and then we need to add on two parts after that now if you're getting a rise in three in my opinion you should be able to overclock it so you're going to want a be 350 chipset motherboard from an B with the am for socket I'm going to be using the AC C prime D 350 M - a motherboard it's a little bit smaller at micro ATX form factor versus the full sized ATX form factor but that will match up with my case which is also microwave micro ATX and you can get a solid B 350 motherboard that supports overclocking on this platform for about 70 to 90 dollars and this one actually cost about 85 bucks right now so there's that cost now memory is actually a bit challenging right now I'm going to be using this Corsair Vengeance LP kit it's low profile which is nice and it's rated at 3000 megahertz transfer speed having faster memory is a great way to get more performance out of your rise in processor and I like 3000 as kind of kind of a starting off weight although you can get away with slower memory as well now sense memory is so expensive right now I basically I'm recommending an 8 gig configuration you can either get a single 8 gigabyte stick or you can get 2 4 gigabyte sticks but either way you're probably going to end up paying about 80 bucks for that when you talk about ddr4 memory and 3,000 rated and I definitely recommend checking your motherboard manufacturers website first because they'll have a verified memory compatibility list you can look at that and see what the motherboard manufacturer has tested to verify will work with the motherboard and the bios version that's currently available for that next up is storage and there's two ways to go about having storage in a computer you need storage because storage is long-term whereas the memory will get white whenever the system turns off storage remembers information that is on it this is a solid-state drive and I highly recommend getting a solid-state drive if you're building a computer right now simply because they're very responsive and the speed with which the operating system loads when you're booting into Windows the speed with which programs will load up just the overall responsiveness of your system will be greatly improved by getting an SSD now you can get about 120 gig SSD for about 55 dollars right now but the best price per gigabyte you're going to find is actually with the higher capacity SSDs at about 240 to 256 gigabytes those will cost you about 85 to 90 dollars though so for today I'm at least as far as the build list goes sticking with 120 gig version although I am using this kingston hyperx as a stand-in honestly most typical data SSDs are can have a huge variance in performance and they will all get you that speed and responsiveness that you want i also recommend a hard drive to add into the system as well and i usually say try to find an old hard drive that you can reformat and reuse otherwise you probably need to spend about 40 to $50 on a one or two terabyte hard drive to get the system rounded out so you have storage to go along with your SSD for a power supply you can get away with a 40 to $50 80 plus bronze created units I've chosen the EVGA 500 BQ right here you can get the EVGA 500 B for about 45 bucks again it'll just get the job done it's not going to look so pretty the cabling might not be that nice I have the BQ hues as all black cabling but it does cost five or ten bucks more but with a five hundred power supply you can get the system up and running and you'd also have a little bit of wattage Headroom so if you decided to upgrade your graphics card in the future to something that uses more power you'll be okay to do that case is next and I have a cougar mini Tower here this is a budget case it's only 40 bucks and actually it's harder to find now for some reason as as compared to a couple months ago but a forty dollar budget case again will get the job done I chose this one because it has a painted interior and it's micro ATX but there's lots of options down in the forty-fifth forty to fifty dollar range just look at reviews and find a case that matches the size of your motherboard as well as one that you like to look up and reviews check those reviews because that's very important this cougar case is not all that great but it's 40 bucks and it just provides some housing and two protection for the components that are going to go inside now with all those parts added to my shopping list my current price for the desktop is about four hundred and fifteen dollars but I don't have a graphics card yet and the graphics card and CPU are probably going to be the most expensive components for any desktop gaming system now for today I'm going to be using a geforce gtx 750ti for about one hundred and ten dollars you can either get a GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2gig model or you can get an AMD Radeon rx 560 which is also a two gig model and both of those are perfectly adequate for 1080 gaming they're not super high-end or anything like that but they will again get the job done so you can play some video games now for about a hundred and forty dollars you can get the 1050 Ti for gig or you can get the RX 564 gig those will give you a bit more performance still good for 1080 gameplay but then beyond that you're going to have a hard time finding anything that's very reasonable I found that as of today at least for about 220 ish dollars you can start looking at GTX 1063 gig versions and then anything else in the mid-range is just really really overpriced though it all depends on what you want that final cost of your system builds end up being how much money you're working with and remember a graphics card is a really easy thing to swap out so if a 1050 ti2 gig is all you can afford right now you can get that start gaming and then it's a simple thing to swap out another graphics card once the prices come down in the future or maybe once we get more towards say Black Friday and you have a bunch of sales going on so I went ahead and pulled all of these components out of the retail boxes and I pulled the relevant stuff that you'll need as far as accessories that are included out of the boxes as well so for the motherboard I have an i/o shield this is very important it actually installs in this little spot here at the back of the case I also pulled out a serial ata cable because we'll need to connect that up to our SSD and then I also pulled out the user guide because it's just important or helpful to have on hand depending on plugging in front panel connectors and that kind of thing SSDs just so Eric is chilling I got both my memory sticks laid out of course nothing extra to go along with those and of course the CPU I pulled out now the CPU you should be careful with it is delicate I keep it in the clamshell on time ready and it's got pins on the bottom you should be careful not to bend this will come with a reef cooler I believe this is a version of the race itself that means we don't need to purchase an aftermarket two CPU cooler to keep things cool on the CPU side it also means that we have some thermal paste that's pre applied on the bottom there so we're just going to be using that so we won't need to worry about thermal paste also going to keep that sitting in the box until it's ready to go graphics card is out and good to go as well power supply is out and good to go as well this is partially modular so it's got a couple cables that are attached all the time and then it's got these modular plugs here and since the graphics card doesn't need extra power to plug into it it's only it's going to get to all its power through the PCI Express connection all we need for the power supply as far as extra cables is this modular SATA cable that is to provide power to our SSD as well now as far as the stuff that I'm using to build things I just have rubber mat to put like the motherboard on when I'm working on it that's to protect both the motherboard as well as this table from getting scratched up couple screwdrivers just standard Phillips head is usually all you'll need and then I did but do a couple add-on pieces for this build one was an additional fan this case only comes with a single fan which I believe is set up to exhaust added a one and as an intake in the front as well so 120-millimeter free and you can get first cheapest five bucks or so they're usually ten ten to twenty bucks for a decent one this one's a freckle venturi and I also got just the tiny little splitter so I can take one of the plugs on the motherboard and split it to plug two fans into it because we've only got two fan plugs headers on this motherboard one is for the CPU and then it's only got one other chassis fan header right here since we have two chassis fans splitter will let allow us to plug both of them in so the first thing you're going to want to do is get your motherboard set up and I usually like to do this outside of the case just makes it a little bit easier and you've got a socket here that's at the center with a lever that holds things in place you've also got this existing ham format right here and we're actually not going to use this the amount that ships with the rising three CPU that we got actually doesn't use these top retention brackets so first let's remove those really quick next we can go ahead and install our CPU so go ahead and pull that out of the clamshell now pay very close attention here because there is a gold triangle on one corner of the CPU there's also a triangle indentation on one corner of the socket as well so keep an eye on both of those and you want to make sure to line those up just lift up the little lever arm on the socket line up that triangle in the proper corner and just gently set it right on top it should drop right in once the pins all line up like it did just there zero insertion force so don't need to push down on it at all it should just drop right in there and then close the lever and it is secured in place now we can go ahead and install the heat sink fan on top of it choose which way you want your AMD logo to go facing that way or facing this way and we're going to go ahead and do it this way and just set it down on top try to keep things even but since you have that thermal paste pre applied and kind of spread out it's not going to be too challenging basically just line that up on top and then go ahead and tighten down all four screws once it's lined up on top though I'd like to just get each corner started and threaded just to get things sort of attached don't tight one corner down all the way though before you start to the others you want to kind of do it in a opposite pattern so give each side a couple twists and that way you won't put too much pressure down on one corner of the CPU that's something you want to avoid all right that's all secured on there it just went straight through to the back plate at the back of the motherboard and now we just have this single cable here it's got a four pin plug on it since that our CPU fan we just plug it into the four pin CPU fan header it's right over here next up we'll install our memory and I purposely chose this motherboard because it has 4 memory slots that means that we can install one or even two right now and still have a couple to add more memory in the future if you choose to do so now double check your motherboard manufacturers a manual that's why I kept that out and which memory slot station popular is an order I happen to know that wood 8 with Asus they do every other slot so we're going to go with the second and four slots right here and we're just going to take our memory note there's a little notch there right in the center and that is actually not centered it's slightly off-center so we want to make sure that that notch lines up with the notch that's on the actual Bhim slot itself which is right about there should line up and either side push down and you know you'll notice there's only a latch on one side on this motherboard that is okay some of the boards have latches on both sides but just apply firm pressure straight down you should hear a little bit of a snap as it goes down into the socket and you'll find that that latch pinches up and locks down and we'll just do the same exact thing with our second stick over here so the motherboard should pretty much be good to go so we can shift our attention over to the case now and we want to do a couple things to make sure the case is prepped and ready to go now one thing that's very important is going to be a motherboard stand off these a little brass standoffs screws they are conductive and they need to be positioned on the motherboard tray actually here here here here and then two more down at the bottom so there's six total two four and six if using a larger sized motherboard or a full sized ATX case you might have up to nine of those that you need to make sure are in the proper place typically the case will have some sort of labeling as to where those go and you can also double-check your motherboard yourself as far as where the standoff locations might be and just so you guys can see them here as well - they're on the top - here in the middle and two more down there at the bottom beyond that I've also installed my head and 20 millimeter intake fan here at the front just to grab the bottom of the chest front of the chassis you can pull that entire panel off and then just screw that in from the front and then I also made sure that my cables are kind of tucked away down here at the bottom so I can wrap stuff up properly and we're definitely going to want to make use of the accessories that came along with the case they were just tucked in a little baggie have screws to screw in the motherboard stand off I also have a lot more standoffs if I happen to have needed more and then of course the ever-important installation of the i/o shield which I'm going to try to do on the fly right now so shields can be quite finicky sometimes and this is not a high-end one so beware of sharp edges on it but you'll notice it kind of lines up here placing it from the inside and will just kind of want to pop each corner into place which sometimes takes a bit of pressure and if it does give you a hard time like this one is just take the butt end of a screwdriver from the back apply some pressure and you should get it spot into place next let's get the power supply installed and I'm going to start off actually by connecting that modular cable that I needed for my SATA then this power supply actually mounts at the top of the case some power supplies mount at the bottom but since there is no exhaust or ventilation at the top I'm going to point the fan facing down so it'll be pulling air from inside the case and then pushing it across the power supply and ejecting it out the back and it should mount up from the back with four screws and we're just about ready to install the motherboard but I wanted to also drop the SSD in as well and this case actually doesn't have very good support for two and a half inch drives it has a good support for three and a half inch drives and it's got a couple five and a quarter inch drive slots for like optical drives in the front but no straight 3.5 2.5 inch drive mount so I actually just went ahead and got a couple screws screws that through the bottom just to mount this sort of the here ghetto style that says these aren't really that big of a deal actually since there's no moving parts inside they can just sort of hang loose in a case or you can use velcro to attach them or whatever you can get creative is what I'm saying but in this case I was able to just screw it through the bottom there got secured it enough that I'll be able to plug in the power and data connectors right there when I get to that and now let's go ahead and drop that motherboard in what we say motherboards are over here it's pretty safe to hold the motherboard by the heat sinks and once it's installed just you know don't put too much pressure on it and you'll notice the i/o on that side of the motherboard right there I'm just going to sort of angle that into the case downward like so this might take a little bit of moving around and wiggling actually you know what I need to do it the other way I'm going to go this side in first if I can kind of flip that down under the corner and then over here the i/o and then we should start seeing actual ports and what not poke at to its back right of course they're not being blocked by fan cable okay I'll be honest that was super annoying that there's all these little contact points in here that are supposed to go in and make contact with some of the plugs sometimes you have to bend them up out of the way or that kind of thing just to get it to all go in but it has gun and so our motherboard is aligned in there the other thing that we're going to keep close eye on right now is now that the motherboard is installed well not all the way as well but and we should be able to see our standoffs through our standoff mounting points as you can see along here next step we'll just screw those in and remember as you install motherboard screws just make them snug you don't over tighten them if you ever tighten them then when you try to uninstall the motherboard which maybe you'll do it someplace you might back off the standoff as well probably super annoying so with the motherboard all secured most of our hardware is actually in the system now aside from the graphics card of course but we need to start actually connecting things up to the motherboard we have a bunch of cables coming here from the front panel get to those in just a second I went ahead and connected up to my fans I actually took the rear 120 millimeter exhaust fan kind of tied up the cable here and dip-dyed it and plug that into one of the two leads coming off my fans splitter down here at the bottom second one needs to plug into this front fan up here this one has a much longer cable fortunately so I'm actually just going to kind of tuck that down against the motherboard it'll go under the graphics card right there and then it'll just go along the bottom of the case I might might shred it push it up behind the motherboard a little bit if I can oh yeah that works kind of keeps it down and out of the way and now I think we'll go ahead and start plugging in our actual power cables coming from our power supply over here now the basic idea with this as we have two main power connectors that go into the motherboard one is the eight pin right there one of the 24 pin that's right over there I mean it of course that SATA power plug for this and that's pretty much it so that's cool any of the excess cables will just try to kind of shove up here in this empty in a quarter bay just to get them out of the way and help give us good airflow and I'm going to try to figure out how how best to kind of wrap these down here our is connected so next up is data at least for the serial ata drive over there so bear in mind when you're plugging in SATA drives whether it's a 2.5 inch SSD like this or a full-size 3.5 inch mechanical drive there's two plugs for each one one will provide power and that comes from the power supply and that is the longer cable or longer plugs most both plugs are l-shaped they have sort of a l-shaped size on one end then there's a smaller cable which is for data which also has an l-shaped plug to it just make sure you have those oriented the right way and it should just pop right in there I didn't we do need to plug in the other side of our SATA cable to the SATA plugs on the motherboard so there's a couple right angle ones right here again oh shoot blood just to make sure it's going in at the right angle and it should snap into place and kind of click and latch and finally for connections to the case we have these front panel connectors now the long blue one on the left of USB 3.0 then there's USB 2.0 right next to it notice that these are kind of also differently keyed like the USB then the front panel audio right there have different pin outs you can reference your motherboards manual for these as far as what connects where and especially the front panel connectors because that is typically the most annoying part of this whole ordeal but yet hard drive LED power LED power and reset switches are all labeled in these and you need to make sure that those connect to the appropriate tiny tiny little pin out heads on the motherboard itself which are down there usually along the bottom edge and finally we get the last piece of the puzzle here our graphic skirt basically you got a PCI Express long edge connector down there at the bottom it goes into the long edge connector PCIe slot on the motherboard you also have your video outs hits back and those of course go out the back of the case now like I said I've already built in this case so I already removed these two PCIe slot covers it is a double slot card so it needs to remove two of them to line up with this you might have to remove different ones depending on what you have there in what case you're using but then of course we've got the two screws that we're getting used to secure this in place and the bear in mind that little latch on the right side will it's supposed to pop up and catch on the back of that when it actually drops in separately so let's see if we can do that and there you have it guys this is pretty much the completed build and I did this sort of quick and dirty for a couple reasons like you might notice some of the things that we get nitpicky about at certain times like if you've ever watched our live show that I do on Tuesday evenings the cable management in here isn't ideal but there's still plenty of airflow coming from the front intake fan down here it's all pretty open in here there's nothing conflicting with fans or anything like that and everything is connected and plugged in and it all it all came together pretty well GPU down at the bottom again doesn't need any extra power but if you did have a higher-end graphics card that did have a supplemental PCI Express power connectors you would need to get another one of those modular cables from the power supply and write it down they just plug that in but other than that you know you know all the basics of how to put together a little rise and three base system here and this system well this system as put together is going to cost a little bit more than 525 but using the parts list that I have in the description you can see how you can put together a really inexpensive gaming PC on this platform the final steps before of course you move on to the next stage which is installing software and everything is to of course plug in turn on the power and then we'll just go ahead and test our our front power button right there there we go fans are spinning up and we at least have an initial indication that we've done done everything properly so guys that pretty much wraps it up for my how to build a right-hand 3 gaming TC tutorial now if you've gotten to this step and you're wondering what to do next I highly encourage you to check out my first 5 things to do with a brand new PC build video I will link that occur as well in the description down below to check that out because that will take you from like hey I put it together and the fans are spinning up to like getting Windows installed even so far as like setting up steam and transferring games and all that kind of stuff as well I'm excited to test this system out it will be following up with some benchmarks and some performance on it I should also get into the BIOS and adjust the fan speed because right now they're running at full speed and it's a little loud but moving a lot of air that is all I have time for today though so hit the thumbs up button if you enjoyed this video and leave comments in the comment section if you have any questions a huge thanks to any of you guys who are down there in the comment section answering the questions of people who have asked them live and had a chance to get to because there's way more questions and I usually have time to respond to thanks again for watching guys and we'll see you next time