Gadgetory

excellent what's up guys welcome back to Pauls hardware this video is going to be part two of my four-part kind of mini series on how to build a computer from a beginner's perspective in part one I built this computer for about $500 have a full beginner's step-by-step guide so click the card up there or the link down in the description if you want to check out that video as well as lists of all the parts that I'm using today as well as back then these parts here I'll be using to upgrade this system today so I'm going to be going over how to upgrade a CPU upgrade memory upgrade your graphics card add a system fan as well as adding additional system storage and then into more videos coming up soon I'll be going over the first things that I do after the system is built as in installing windows and getting everything figured the way I want it as well as a comparison between the performance of this build right here as well as the upgraded build once all these parts are installed I have already tested the system as is and I can say it's pretty impressive for the price but I think we can do a little bit better let's run down the upgrade parts I'll be using this little project now if you were to buy these parts outright as well as most of the parts from this system at least the ones that aren't being replaced by these it would cost you between seven hundred and twenty to seven hundred and sixty or so US dollars that's not including a Windows license I am maybe or maybe not including the price of the hard drives because these are salvaged I just have a couple different examples from old builds or old systems so again if you have an old 500 gig - one or two terabyte hard drive lying around you can easily pop that into the system save yourself 40 or 50 bucks as for upgrading though going from the easiest parts to upgrade to the more difficult parts memory of course is simplest just adding a second stick of memory beyond that it's a this stuff here is a little bit more difficult graphics cards pretty easy to pop in and then we just need to connect the power connector fan we do need to mount to the side panel and then just plug in the three pin power hard drives need a power cable from the power supply and to say that data cable from the motherboard and then the CPU is what's going to be most difficult simply because we need to remove the old CPU and then we're going to be dealing with some cleaning of thermal paste but it's not all that challenging especially if you are prepared so apart from the original build that I have right there and I'm going to be slightly disassembling I have my accessories and tools from the original kits my rubber mat to keep things safe on surface I'm working on scissors and a screwdriver from my motherboard accessories I have a single SATA cable the other one that came in the package as well as all the screws and everything that came with the case accessories now we won't be using these for today's video but you should definitely have them if you're doing a system build one is going to be a USB Drive just a small one you need a minimum of 4 gigabytes that's just to make our Windows 10 installer I like having an external drive just to plug in and make sure everything that might be on the computer that we are changing or updating or upgrading is backed up and making a system image is also a great way to get back on your feet and finally like it or not we are going to need another computer because we need something that's internet connected with a USB port in order to make our Windows 10 installer again I'll be covering that in the next video so stay tuned for it maybe hit the subscribe button if you want to be appraised when that one goes live finally for our CPU removal and replacement I have a kit here to deal with the thermal paste now I have this stuff from Arctic clean for removing and cleaning the thermal paste in the thermal contact area if you don't have that you can use alcohol I have 91% here you got high percentage alcohol but maybe you had not quite 100% hundred percent a lot I also have some stuff for cleaning the thermal paste I like to use coffee filters if you have them available if not paper towels work just fine just make sure they don't get lint and fibers everywhere also some q-tips are very helpful to that and of course I need some replacement thermal paste for when we replace the CPU heatsink fan so let's start off with the easiest upgrade that's going to be system memory I originally had a single 8 gig ddr4 dimm in here I chose that because the original motherboard I used had only two DIMM slots and that would allow you to get 8 gigs now and then add a gigs later if you are buying the system outright I might consider going with a 2 by 4 gig kit to give yourself dual channel right out of the gate or maybe just buy the 16 gigs right away so what you need to be concerned about when you're upgrading memory is going to be making sure that the sticks are gonna play nice together and as long as you have ddr4 it should at least work at the minimum speeds which is going to be just fine for a motherboard that you can't do overclocking with anyway like this you're not going to be able to access XMP settings on this for example so what I'm installing is just the second stick from my two by 8 gig kit if you don't have a to buy whatever gig kit outright then make sure you buy the exact same stick of memory once again if that's not available just make sure that at least well that it's ddr4 that it is the same capacity so if you're adding another 8 gig stick or if you're adding another stick make sure it's another 8 gig stick along with that one at least the ones that are met and matched channels and then finally at least try to make sure that the speed is going to be equal this one for example is 2666 but you might be looking at 2130 3 or 2400 the only other thing you have to worry about is double checking that manual to make sure that you're installing it in the right slots usually for dual channel capability it's going to be every other slot so it's pretty tough to get wrong but beyond that we're just going to install just like we did with the original system build by popping that latch out making sure once again that our notch is aligned dropping that down straight and evenly and then applying firm pressure on both sides to snap it into place and tada we have upgraded our memory next let's install this case fan and with a lot of budget cases you will get a minimal amount of fans installed that is the case with this case AHA which only came with 120-millimeter fan upfront which was again perfectly adequate for the system as is with a dual core and a fairly low power only drawing 75 watt GPU since there's no extra power for it for this one only 75 watts is what it gets through the PCI Express bus I digress as though adding another fan will give us a bit of extra airflow for everything in here and keep everything a bit cooler since we're upgrading to parts that will generate a little bit more heat when we're adding a fan we have to pay attention to airflow so right now we have an intake in the front and we have two other locations we can put a fan a lot of cases we'll have vans at the top here for this case has the power supply at the top sometimes power supplies at the bottom and you'll have some places for exhaust at the top this one has a place back here which would probably also be used for exhaust coming out that way this is a smaller fan mount that I believe it's a 92 millimeter so I didn't want to put a fan there instead I'm going to add the fan to the side panel right here popping on this side panel we can see it's got a hundred 20 millimeter mount right there it is not filtered so that is a downside it is going to gather some dust right here but we can clean it off fairly easily and all I'm going to need to do is Mount the fan via these four points on the four corners make sure it's oriented the right way I want it drawing air in pushing air into the case towards the GPU right there and having the intake here and intake here will create positive pressure inside the case with both of those intakes and then the power supply at the top is going to be drawing and pushing some air out as well as just air going out the back there because of the positive pressure just about any fan you buy should come with mounting screws these are the standard fan mounting screws they're a bit heavier or wider thread than the ones you typically use for computer cases and those screws are actually meant to sort of dig into each corner of the fan that you mount it into if you're not sure which direction your fan is going to spin or which direction the air is going to flow look at the side of the fan there will be often an arrow indicating so that arrow is the direction that the fans can spin in that direction and then that arrow is the way that the air is going to flow so that way if it doesn't have the arrows almost always the bracket going across the back will be where the air comes out or the exhaust and then the open side will be the intake where air goes in and so with our fan mounted onto the side panel all that is left is to plug into that other three pin fan header and there is a fan header available for it just above the graphics card in there I also want to point out that this adds another 25 millimeters of thickness or so to the inside of this side panel and if you look at our graphics card right there you might notice that well it's not that it's out of space but there is definitely less space there now than there was before that is one of the limitations of this case and one of the reasons why if you're shopping for graphics cards to upgrade make sure that although they can be longer this direction that they are not taller in this direction there are some thicker graphics cards like EVGA for the win and that kind of thing which will not fit in this case especially if you have a side fan installed as well another thing to keep in mind in terms of space is going to be this bracket right here which is going to hold your couple drives and I already have a 2.5 inch the SSD mounted right up here to the top but again with a longer graphics card which the GTX 1060 gigabyte version that I have definitely is it's going to go out and again potentially conflict with drives that are right here and with the the gigabyte card I also have to pay attention to the fact that there is going to be a power connector which is going to be right down there pointing out that way so what I'm going to do is move that 2.5 inch drive down to the lower part of the bracket here so it's a lot thinner then say the 3.5 inch drive over there and I'll install a 3.5 inch drive up top that should give us enough clearance but again we're starting to see some of the limitations that you get with a more budget oriented case like this a $40.00 case it is smaller and you know fits everything into a smaller footprint but when you start expanding and adding stuff you start to run out of space fairly quickly you and with that we're down to our final three parts to install a CPU graphics card storage but first off just to point out since I do have two mechanical hard drives right here I'm only going to be using one of these I'll do the 3.5 inch drive since I think that's probably a little bit easier to come by if you guys are trying to use an older part but of course a 3 or a 2.5 inch mechanical drive would work just as well and would give you a little bit more room with that bracket across there at the same time anyway we'll go with the 2.5 I'm sorry the 3.5 inch 2 terabyte drive and honestly if I was doing what should be done next I would probably do the CPU upgrade and then the graphics card and then these drives but since I said I was going to do the CPU last I'll wait and do that last for the graphics card I just need to remove the old graphics card same way that I installed it by removing the two thumb screws here at the bracket up and that little latch over and then just sliding it out which shouldn't take too much effort next I'll turn my attention to the power and since I'm going to need power for a couple of these devices coming out I'll just make sure that that's all set up and good to go so the SATA plugs the SATA power plugs from the power supply that I already used when I installed the 2.5 inch SSD originally come on a little chain with three of them so I'll keep using the one for the SSD actually I probably bring that down to the lower end then I'll just use another one I'll probably need to skip this one in the middle then use this third one to plug in the hard drive up there at top and then I'm also going to need to pull out this little bunch of cables and get a PCI Express power connector out of there so the new graphics card is going to be going right in here and it is quite a bit longer than the old graphics card so one other thing I'm going to do here before I install that is get this serial ata cable and plug it in for my second drive now my SATA ports are right down there one's already plugged in this one I can't really use because this plug has a right angle plug on one side the 90-degree one right there and there's not much to be done about that so the right angle plug I'm going to use on the motherboard and I'm just going to position that in one of these upper right facing slots one-handed so again bearing in mind this is a l-shaped style plug got to make sure it goes in the right way and the latch on top is usually the case for this so I'm just going to pop that in snaps into place now I am blocking the lower SATA port here but since there's not enough space for more drives in this build anyway or not really much unless I use those five and a quarter inch base at the top I do have a couple more available right there and if it really comes down to it I would just need to change SATA cables to get one that didn't have a 90 degree plug on one inch and then again we have this block waiting for the hard drive on the other side next I'm going to mount both of the drive to this brackets I have repositioned these little rubber or silicone grommets at the top those are specifically for mechanical spinning drives they provide a little bit of sound dampening also when it comes to mechanical drives or well any 2.5 inch or three-point Drive 3.5 inch drives at all you'll note that they have mounting points on the sides as well as on the bottom so one two three and four are your actual drive mount points for this one and those should line up with the four silicone or rubber guys that I just put on there and then they will mount through those little holes with these screws here which are a little bit longer than your typical mounting screws that's just to love them to pass through the grommets and again pull bit sound dampening which is nice for spinning Drive so I really should move on to the CPU at this point but just to be clear where we're at so that we can sort of rest everything in here once we're good to go coming from the power supply up on this side I have a three SATA power plug cable that's for the two drives I also have a PCI Express power cable that I'm only going to be using one of these plugs I need a 8 pin for the GPU I have chosen but as you can see this wouldn't be able to handle two plugs if the GP required that and then finally I've got two serial ata cables also plugged into the motherboard here and that's again for both of the storage drives however if I were to like install that there with with this with this bracket over here which actually is lining up okay thankfully just like that so we can see that there is enough room for example over on this side of the drives to those plugs to actually plug in without conflicting like with that fan or anything there's a little there's enough room there but also once that graphics card goes in once again it's going to be like that except over here and as you can see that eight pin plug down on the end definitely needs some space like right in here so that's going to be a little bit of a tight squeeze but anyway with all this good to install I'm gonna go ahead and move on to the CPU removal of a stock Intel CPU heatsink fan isn't all that tough you do need a flathead screwdriver Society didn't include that any accessories but most people have that if you look at these four mounting points you'll notice that they have arrows on all four of them that's actually for removal so turn each in the direction of the arrow it'll turn about a quarter turn that will kind of disengage that little plug part at the very bottom which pops through the bottom of the motherboard and holds everything in place you of course do also want to remove that four pin CPU power and then each of these little plugs will just kind of lift up a little bit that'll get disengage again that plastic piece that's poking through the bottom of the motherboard with all those just kind of lifted you should be able to just give it a little bit of a jiggle and lift it off now you'll notice it did stick just a little bit that's because the thermal paste one it gets hot kind of melts up and makes a good coverage over the top of the CPU so our next step is going to be to clean that up so when we reinstall a new heat sink fan it will it'll make good contact we don't want any air bubbles or any old residue left in there so if you're doing this upgrade from a core i3 to a core i5 you might take your old CPU heatsink fan and think to yourself I can just reuse this right maybe I'll just pop it back on there and then I'll have an extra heat sink fan but I do not recommend that for one thing if you look just at the sizes of the boxes themselves you might notice that one of them is slightly bigger I thought that was going to indicate a significant difference between these two heatsink fans but it wasn't really all that much they are different though even though they might look the same they may look physically the same they even look physically the same size this one has a little bit more powerful fan this one also has a different arrangement at least for the aluminum fins going out there at the side some of them that are higher end will also have copper at the center and that's just to allow for a bit of additional heat transference if the CPU is something that is more powerful or that is going to generate more heat so always use the stock heatsink fan that came with the CPU you're installing if that is the case this is the 6500 and the one that came with it and for the purposes of today's demonstration even though this one did again come with pre applied thermal paste I'm actually going to clean this off and then I'll show you guys how to apply thermal paste if you're doing it from scratch or if you just don't have that pre applied stuff on there well let's uninstall this CPU so we can do all of our thermal paste cleaning at the same time it's just the same process as installation was but can't even reverse so again lift that little lever arm pull it back the closing latch down cover should lift up again grab it by the sides I find that from from the top and the bottom works best and lift it off being as careful as possible not to mess with any of those contact points down at the bottom now we will again take our new CPU which is the exact same shape and size and everything like that it just says 2060 500 on instead of 6100 and of course it's quad core in there again same procedure for the installation Gold triangle at the corner line that up with the gold triangle in the socket drop it down in there you've done this before you're your professional at this point then we will be closed the lid push that latch lever back down back into place and we're good to go now if you're planning on reusing your old CPU or just storing it for a while or even returning it it's definitely a good idea to clean the thermal paste off first if using rubbing alcohol just dump a little bit onto your coffee filters and then you can apply that to the surface that works pretty well I like this stuff for mark to clean though you just put a couple drops onto the thermal material trying to spill it of course rub that around a little bit and that'll kind of loosen everything up break it up so it'll get absorbed pretty easily by the coffee filter now we'll get it mostly clean and then then they give you the thermal surface purifier which you drop on after that and that will make sure that everything's super cleaned off of there in order to prepare it for the next installation prepare that surface for thermal mating which also sounds like hot lovin and finally if you want to be really particular about things that's where the q-tip comes in and you can use that to kind of just go along the edges the grooves so to speak and get any of that thermal paste that might have gone over the side making it look pristine good as new so again ready for return and resale handing down to somebody else or whatnot just again make sure you hang on to the little plastic container that it came with because that's one of the best places to squirt so our CPU is installed ready to go we have our heat sink fan which does not have thermal paste on it that is important and we are going to apply our own so I have my little tube here this is just some stuff from ek most thermal paste is good that I know at the time people ask me what kind of thermal paste to use all the time and I you know most of the thermal paste will work within a few degrees of each other so it all has a little blob right there in the middle that was really fast but there it is I advocate something between a grain of rice and the size of a pea about that much is going to be pretty good that's actually a pretty good amount on there right now that might be a little bit too much but again the blob in the middle will be spread out by the pressure of the heat sink fan heat sink fan once again we're going to line up intel logo facing up that's not really important but then you know if you can't do that you might as well and again we're going to line up those four prongs on the bottom with the four mounting points on there also you should sort of pay a little bit of attention to this cable hanging out the side sometimes they wrap it around in a key get caught in that little fan thanks for anyone who pointed that out in the comments on the build video by the way and we're just going to drop that strength down on top put that lined up you'll you will feel that thermal paste squish around a little bit but we want to try to keep this as level as possible and then again starting with opposite corners just put straight down and you'll hear it snap into place one two three four it's nice and secure and we're good to go oh wait we also have to plug in the CPU fan header so the see if you installed moving on to dropping everything back into place since we're pretty much good to go graphics card went in again just like it did with the original build it's just a little bit longer but it snaps into place the PCI Express slot latch at the bottom can slide over to lock it in place and then two mounting thumb screws at the back of the computer to make sure it's secured this 1060 does require extra power from the power supply so here is our six plus two pin PCI Express graphics power connector these will usually say PCIe on them and they're the only six plus to pin type connectors also bear in mind there is a latch on one side sometimes it's on the top on the graphics card side sometimes it's on the bottom this one is on the top and that latch will engage with this little latch right here on the plug itself of course these final steps took a decent amount of finagling just dropping this in having that PCI Express power connector be routed properly I had to kind of bend it over but fortunately there's still a decent amount of clearance between the drive cage and that plug the plugs for the storage drives themselves are kind of wedged up here at the front but I was able to get that mostly over in here there's some ugliness with cables down in that area but you can't really see it unfortunately everything in front of that main system fan for the intake is pretty clear so I can drop air directly back for the CPU and the graphics card last little bit here is to install the side panel and hopefully plug in that that three pin see if I can do this with one hand I did it yay normally we wouldn't put the side panel back on right now but since we've already booted the system up once it should be okay so now I've come down to it once again the moment of truth again oh yeah power switch it works hurray fans are spinning I can't even pop out the side panel here you can even kind of see the gigabyte LED logos on the graphics card through the side which is super fun that's that's a high-end feature that you wouldn't expect with something like the fractal core 1100 but guys that's all for this video I hope you have learned a little bit more about how to upgrade a computer whether you're doing an upgrade immediately from the $500 build that I already showed you or you're just looking for some tips on upgrading individual parts yourself but I'm once again leaving you guys with a bit of a cliffhanger which is that I've built the system powered it on and then said cool everything's fine but where do you go from here should you go into the UEFI should you immediately start installing windows thankfully I have another video on that coming up very soon if it's out it'll be linked in the description if it's not out yet you'll have to wait just a few more days that's gonna be talking about first steps for getting the system configured properly installation of windows and just some of the stuff that I do right off the bat thanks again for watching oh and then finally we'll have a comparison video where I do benchmarks and comparisons between the $500 version of this build and this version of this bill which would cost between 720 and 778 dollars right now depending on whether or not you're forking over cash for a brand new hard drive thanks again for watching this video though guys hit the thumbs up button if you did enjoy it links again to all this stuff is down in the description below we'll see you all next time