Gadgetory

cooller masters new master set ms 120 sets you up with a gaming keyboard and mouse for just $89.99 the keyboard features many mechanical switches rubber dome hybrids with a clicky mechanical feel perky RGB backlighting and 9 preset LED modes the mouse has durable Omron switches a 3500 DPI picsArt optical sensor and matching RGB lighting click the link in the description for more information what's up guys how's it going welcome back to Pauls hardware I am moving on from my Vega testing because I think I want to give that a little bit time for maybe some drivers to mature and also to figure out how the pricing is going with that so for today's video I'm switching back to thread Ripper mode because I've just had this guy arrived in the mail this is the ek supremacy Evo thread Ripper Edition and if you guys want to check out a cool video done by gamers Nexus actually before or third or even launched they sort of took a look at where the dies are placed on thread Ripper and what kind of coverage you currently get with the existing ace tech blocks that you can use with the adapter that comes in the package and my question with Red River today is since the dies are spread out and there's four of them since the heat spreader itself is so big and since the ACE tech blocks aren't completely covering the heat spreader is there going to be a marked improvement in thermals when we switch from using those ace tech liquid coolers to something specifically designed for thread river like this block from ek for now I'm gonna get started actually I need to do some cleanup first - and I'm going to get my thread Ripper test bench set up and for my test bench I'm actually going to be testing out a new X 399 motherboard for today this is the gigabytes X 399 or is gaming 7 the block itself I have positive things to say for at least at least from the get-go I haven't tested it right now but taking it out of the box pretty simple it's just an EVO block I did take it apart to take a closer look at the block itself and the channels that are under there you will notice that the actual contact plate is is huge it's substantially larger than one of these standard ace tech copper blocks that makes contact with the CPU heat spreader in side-by-side you can see it will probably make a lot more contact here and now that should aid and heat dissipation theoretically I also notice that the micro fin channels inside the block which is where the most efficient heat transfer takes place is a bit larger than it has been on previous blocks as well so again theoretically if that is directly above or mostly above where the actual dyes are on the thread ripper then it should theoretically give a little bit more heat dissipation and might lead to better temperatures potentially even better overclocking mounting the unit itself is also not too challenging at all thankfully thread Ripper tr4 socket just like intel's high-end desktop socket has a backplate that's pre installed so it's just a matter of tightening down the four thumb screws of course after you've applied thermal paste i will say that the thermal paste provided is nice it's actually called thermal grizzly but i used the entire tube on this one application and i'll see when i take it off if it actually got enough coverage beyond that the water cooling loop itself i was setting up using the existing fractal Kelvin cooler that I had already installed I totally forgot that the Praxis wet bench is made for water cooling and that I could have just removed this bracket to remove this whatever that will help for putting it back on it's been a few months at least now it's been it's been several months since I actually built this thing but thankfully this is a copper radiator and it does have G 1/4 fittings so I was able to remove the fractal pump / block and that was a little bit of a challenge but I did get it off and then my plan was to use this unit over here which is from the ek predator 280 which I've had in storage it's a big alternate 80 millimeter radiator and I'm here on this end it has a pump combo that's part of the radiator so I would have been able to just connect that all up and I would have my pump reservoir essentially I would have had to top it off of course but when I took the box out of storage it's just been in the garage for the past few months since I reviewed this and this this fitting just broke just snapped so water was leaking out of the box when I took it out of the out of the garage and I was like oh that's not good and eventually determined that's just just broke I'm not sure how it happened like I said it's just been in storage but can't really use this because of that I might be able to disassemble this thing and make use of some of the parts that are in there but we'll figure that out at a later date so the solution is to set up a more standard type of loop with a reservoir and a pump and then a radiator and then of course the block over here so I'm going to reuse the pump reservoir from arctic panthers since it's not doing anything right now that should get the job done and then I could reassemble all this things and then I can actually start testing so let's let's get back to work Shelly so this is one of those projects that I was expecting to get done and maybe a day or a day and a half and it's now like over a week later but that's okay there's various reasons for that but let's focus on the project at hand which is getting this water cooling loop set up and how I have accomplished it block of course is installed right there as you probably saw earlier and then I had to accommodate the rest of the loop which includes the reservoir and the pump right there as well as the radiator which is installed back here so I'm still using the radiator from the fractal Kelvin which is a three hundred and sixty millimeter copper radiator I'm using the tubing and the quick-release connections from that ek kit that I showed you which had broken at least the reservoir and and pump part of that but salvaged the tubing since I actually don't have very much flexible to me I have a lots of I have lots of a PE TG hardline tubing but not a lot of flexible stuff so this is nice because it allowed me to use the the quick-release is still and that means I could pop this off and pop on a different block if I swapped out the motherboard over 2 X 299 or something like that so that's convenient and then for the actual pump and reservoir down here I just used the same existing pump and res that I have salvaged from arctic panther that was still in fine shape so after getting everything installed and getting the fittings in place and whatnot I had to cycle through and do a bunch of cleaning because some of this equipment has been used before so I had to stock up on my distilled water and then I just basically refilled that reservoir multiple times over and over again cycled it through emptied it out and so on and so forth just to make sure that everything in there is clean and tidy so now I can finally finally move on with my testing so I'm gonna try to keep things pretty simple since I'm just testing the 1920 X in there and since I haven't tested that before I need to get some baseline numbers first of all and then I will do a burnin test and see how hot things get and then of course I will be switching over to the H 100 i from corsair to give us a little bit of comparison so let's begin our testing the EK water block is currently installed and this is the idle test so for idle it's just been sitting here at idle I was going for about 15 minutes we're actually closer to 25 minutes now to let everything settle down protip I've discovered something about the rise in master software which is that if you turn on the act of monitoring it actually takes up about five they're like four or five percent a CPU load and the CPU temperatures go way up so here's my idle temperature which is right around it's been about bouncing between 33 and 35 for the most part although if you do turn on monitoring suddenly it becomes like 40 to 45 so that's why I'm doing things as I am right now over here I'm using Hardware monitor to also monitor temperatures and here you can see both the offset temperature at the top as well as the actual temperature right here there is a 27 degree offset so the top value will always be 27 degrees warmer than the current value and here we can again see we're idling around 33 to 35 degrees Celsius I also wanted to point out when it comes to the actual processor since this is the 1920 X and we have 12 cores you can see how the course listed right here and at stock it's actually going to run at about 3.7 gigahertz when it's running on most of the course and if I drill cores though when it's using say 2 or 4 of them can actually boost up to well beyond 3.7 gigahertz so we're actually seeing about 4.1 if you look over here at the maximum values about 4.1 4.15 is what the cores are actually hitting individually but of course when we're actually running a load test it's going to be running that across all the course so I'll double check that again when we get back to that and now the burden test is going well it has been going now for about 25 minutes I was actually kena intending to stop it at 20 minutes and I lost track of time but that's ok so our maximum temperature was recorded over here by hardware info 64 and that's actually a little bit higher than it then it actually was spiked to seventy six point three but actually it was running at about 68 degrees Celsius pretty stable and you can you can tell that a little bit by the histogram here the CPU is the blue line going across the top here which is very stable for the most part running at about 60 degrees and I don't think it's gonna change too much more beyond that so I'm gonna call that my value for the burn test and just in case you're wondering systems ability test is running with CPU FPU and cash but not system memory which does tend to lead to slightly higher temps for the burn test at least from what I've been told and then also just to scroll up here and take a look at our core clocks we're actually running at about 3.5 gigahertz on most of the cores although it does fluctuate a bit going from between about 3.3 to about 3.6 overall and since I reset this right after the test starter we can see that since it's running on all cores it never got over 3.7 gigahertz while it was under load so next up I'm gonna swap in the H 100 IV 2 and I will be making use of my quick disconnects right here to pop off the third Ripper block and then we'll get that test up and running so I now have the the trusty h100 IV to installed so let's go ahead and fire up the test bed here and I've applied plenty of thermal paste again just like I did with the the ek block in case you're wondering I was using the ek thermal paste the same stuff that they provide it's basically the same stuff they provide with their GPU blocks and that kind of thing when you buy them uh and we're just gonna load into Windows here see you see how things are looking those fins appear to be hitting it pretty hard already they're running pretty loud there's hardware info 64 and let's take a look at our initial CPU temperatures looks like we're at a nice chilly ninety three point three degrees Celsius appears to be climbing fairly quickly ninety four ninety four point eight ninety five huh yeah of course they reach one hundred I it doesn't seem to be doing a very good job keeping things chilly here and to running loud you know what happens when temperatures get really hot and they keep climbing and climbing and climbing theoretically oh there goes that is called thermal junction max TJ Max and the system just shut itself off to prevents the 1920 X from being damaged I know what's going on my cursor each one hundred Ivy to pump has died I've couldn't tell my sarcasm as I was starting off this little bit this is one of my main issues one of the reasons that I have stopped using iia OS in any of my production machines one of the reasons why I sort of have gotten less and less inclined to recommending a iOS and it's just it's just one of those points of failures that can be very very challenging to deal with but yeah pump dead so guys I'm gonna be as candid as I can right now this has been the video from hell everything has gone wrong starting off like over a week ago was setting up the water cooling loop just just I there was so much frustration okay I can't even talk about a little individual things that went wrong over the course of time ending with now my pumps dead I'm H 100 IV - so the AIO cooler that I've been telling you guys I'm going to compare against the entire time is it's not dead now of course there's other things I could do I could pull another AO out I have other options but at this point I am so sick and tired of this actual video that I am just going to end it so I'm sorry for those of you guys who are looking for a more direct comparison of the threader for waterblock to something else maybe I'll come back to that in the future we'll see how that goes but for now that's all for this video guys I hope you have enjoyed it such as it is and I'm gonna try to come back soon because I had a bad week last week - I didn't get many videos posted I just need again I kind of get back on track and and sort of reassess my situation and hopefully put myself in a better mood moving forward anyway guys thank you so much for watching this video and if you did enjoy it hit the thumbs up button we'll see you guys the next one