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TESTED! $2000 Mini ITX Gaming PC

2017-03-23
the master key series of mechanical keyboards from Coolermaster features genuine Cherry MX switches and the flexibility of choice whether you want small medium or large you can pick your size and pick your color with RGB and clear white LED backlighting options click the sponsor link in the description for more information what's up guys welcome to false hardware and today's video we're at long last I will be doing some testing some overclocking some benchmarks and performance on my February bill this is a mini ITX system it's designed to be fairly small not super compact that's relatively small its mini ITX build of course and then it's meant to also be very powerful so we have a 7700 k also have a gtx 1080 in there i also have all SSDs as far as the storage in there and of course i have this pretty fancy looking lammle pc q 37 case aluminium and tempered glass and of course i have some stuff to talk about because if you watched me actually build this thing it was a time-lapse there was no talking at all it was all just pictures in video so why don't we start with a little bit more feedback on the build itself i wanted to give you guys a better idea of the actual size of this of this thing which is i don't know it's it's between small and large for a mini ITX case let's put it that way this is a fan text m to evolve in the back i'll set it right here next to the cursor 380 t which is also on the large size for a mini ITX system you can see it's 380 just a little bit taller and a little bit fatter but the q 37 here is again like it's not tiniest for sure like if you compare it to a note 202 or something like that but I think the trade-off is that you can fit full-sized desktop parts in it so you can fit the two forty eight to forty rad at the top there's also a lot more space for cable management in here than you have in something like a note 202 and I'd say for a larger size build something you want to show off because of course as you're seeing all the reflections of tempered glass I think it works pretty good these are the tiny screws that hold the tempered glass side panels on and once those are removed tempered glass itself releases front piece will kind of rest in place because it sucks under this little piece right there but beyond that they just Appl oh this is a bit of a has a gray glass to it so it is sort of slightly shadowed shadowy whatever tinted I guess would be the right word for that then of course once we get that off you can see right inside like that let me get this other side off too so this piece here is more of a challenge to sort of get on I mean it's not like it's completely impossible anything it's just a little bit more difficult I'm sort of holding just holding it in place right now and it just sort of sits on the flip at the bottom and then those four screws all hold it in place so again it's like not the best mounting situation for tempered glass that I've ever seen but you know once you get it on there it stays in place okay speaking of tempered glass on the front and the side here means a combined with the fact that we have lovely a brushed aluminum for the rest of the construction top panel here inside panel here means there's no real good way to like hold this system like if you need to pick it up or something like that because at the base here this this sort of I don't know area at the bottom goes around the entire bottom so there's nowhere to kind of get your fingers under there so I found myself just sort of putting my finger on my hand on the corner tilting the case up so I could get my hand under the bottom and then I would be able to kind of lift it and move it however I needed to so that was getting things done but this seems like the kind of case you're not going to be taking on the go with you you know like a 380 T over here with the tandel you're going to want to get it set up put it where you want it to be and then probably leave it there now you may have noticed when I introduced all the parts for the original build video that I had a different graphics card I had the icx version of the EVGA 1080 for the win to swap that with the founder's edition GTX 1080 because this one is the length wasn't an issue it was going to fit lengthwise is actually the width how wide the PCB and part of the cooler was on that a VGA card and I don't have that key right now but I can demonstrate at least with this gigabyte card which is that if you have extension right here if the Y card sticks out this away then you're probably going to run into some conflicts with this case because there's not a ton of clearance when it comes to that direction that and you're also going to need to it's right here fitting it in that was classic conflict that extended PCB didn't allow me to tuck the graphics card back in here and just get it to seat properly with the motherboard so yeah go with a smaller graphics card I guess is the answer to that and just bear in mind no not that graphics cards I guess but design Edition is actually a good choice for a system like this because it's got sort of an enclosed cooler I'm just going to eject a lot of the warm air at the back of the case and also it's kind of nice because you do have what would be effectively your intakes down here at the bottom now another thing that was pointed out in that video is that I pretty much have a completely negative pressure system going on right here I put these two rear eighty millimeter fans from Noctua as exhaust these tops exhaust fans from the h100 IV to are also set up as exhaust so basically everything is pushing air out the top and out the back what that means is negative pressure so we might potentially have dust issues in the future if I ran this long term like along some of the edges here but it does also mean that the primary intake which is going to be down here at the bottom is hopefully where most of the air is going to be coming in from so along these grooves right here and would go in that way and then pulled up through there by the negative pressure I did do a bit of temperature testing with this I didn't do I wouldn't call it extensive but some temperatures are just fine and I think switching these are like flipping those around could maybe like equalize the pressure in here a little bit better but then you'd be looking at no filter no air filter for these back here whereas there is an air filter down here on the bottom which is held on by magnets so there you go and I would imagine for maintenance on this thing you just tip it over like I've done right now here with probe or dust repair I click down here at the bottom you can just pop that off and clean it out a couple final things to point out for the build one is where all the pass throughs are here there's a couple to top there's a couple on the side there's a couple more done at the bottom at least relative to the motherboard tray they all have these covers on them like this one right here with a couple Phillips head screws holding them in place so you I really try to minimize the number of those that I actually removed so there's the main that I have most of the stuff coming through for the motor board here and then I did I removed this one up here to these at the top are difficult to work with at least if you have the drive cage in the drive cage on the opposite side basically means that the majority of actually both of these panel covers is blocked so you kind of have to feed everything right up to the corner back there also while it is nice to be able to individually remove those panels you know so you can cover the ones you're not using would be really nice to have grommets behind them because I'll be honest when when I'm just looking at kind of that bear pass-through right there I mean it doesn't look terrible it's got it's got a bit of a plastic ring around edge but it doesn't look the greatest either and then finally I would like to give Liam leave some some props for their panels here at the top and the rear panel I'm sorry the top panel and the opposite side panel these are just incredibly easy to remove it's got a little lip back there and really just grab it and tug pops off just like that now you can see that other desks will appear on the top as well so there's your brush metal panel for the top putting it back in place is easy pushing back down on it like that and then the opposite side panel moves in exactly the same way and that reveals the opposite side where we can see our VX 500 as well as our course your SF 600 parts place so tiny so cute Lucas tiny it is fixed under a power supply but it's been doing a great job Carn everything so far perfectly adequate for a single GPU system with a GTX 1080 like this one right here and look it's even got a zero fan mode I looked at cabling is also all black which looks pretty nice too and although this isn't my best cable management work everything is tidy enough and there's still plenty of room allowed deck for airflow yeah and that pretty much everything else is installed over here on the front and I would like to point out that I did add the USB cable for the course h100 IV - that's going up there and then around the back and then plugging in via the USB 2 port there is USB single USB 2 header on here so that worked out for that and everything else was connected so the only other things that I had to add that weren't in the list of products that I initially listed off was a couple fans letters so since this board they only has a couple for pin fan headers I did use fan splitters so I could connect well the the Corsair has one kind of built-in 9/8 a fan splitter so I could connect both of these aiding the limit eighty millimeter Noctua fans to the same header on the board now let's move into some actual testing and what I did was I overclocks the snot out of the CPU and the GPU and then I ran benchmark tests so that's pretty straightforward I don't say over the clock that's not out of because this is the 7700 K I've used and several other builds already and it is a decent overclocker but it can't really get too much past about 4.9 gigahertz with reasonable voltage so that's what I ran it at actually started off being a little bit more conservative I had it at 4.8 gigahertz and I did about 30-minute burn in test and when I did that with I 264 was heading about 80 to 85 C MAX on the CPU mid to 6:00 mid-60s to maybe low 70s average under load with that synthetic burnin test so that's like a worst case scenario for the CPU I figured I probably had a little bit more thermal Headroom after that and since the CPU I knew already could hit 4.9 gigahertz I thought why not try to just bump up the voltage a little bit because those initial tests at 4.8 didn't add any voltage and I was running the fans at least was the cooler master software the link software that you can use to control the H 100 IV - in silent mode when I jumped up to 4.9 since I had to add some voltage I also changed the profile from silent to standard mode on H 100 IV - which does add a little bit of noise but also improves the cooling performance added voltage in the form of plus 95 millivolts at least according to the as rocky UEFI using a voltage offset mode that led to 90 degrees Celsius max temperatures on the CPU using I 264 synthetic benchmark tests and that was after about 20 to 25 minutes under load of course I could have let it run longer to reach full on thermal saturation point with the liquid CPU cooler but I thought that was enough to give me a ballpark and it's probably not going to get too much worse than that mid 70s to low 80s average was what I saw is only spiking up to about 90c though when it was actually looking at the running temperatures with the test on it was in the mid 70s to low 80s on average range so that's adequate it's obviously not the best of what you would expect when you're using a closed-loop cooler like this one with a larger 240 millimeter radiator but definitely within range of what I wanted and given that we're in a smaller form factor system was not quite as much airflow I found it to be again perfectly adequate after that I overclocked the GPU ended up adding plus 240 megahertz to GPU clock and plus hundred and 25 megahertz memory clock maxed out the power targets and it has a fan profile at standard I did not add fan speed and that led to about 60% max fan speed well under load with my overclock the GPU base clock was 1847 loose clock was 1974 it was peaking at 2113 which is pretty impressive but after the temperatures creeps up its averaged out to about 2025 under load and that's after thermal saturation point is reached and the max temperature was 85 degrees Celsius again a little bit warmer than what I would what I would hope for for a 1080 overall but we are using the founders Edition card which does have the benefit of ejecting more of the hot air out of the case and 85 C with an overclocked card is not terrible and it was not throttling at all at least once it settled down to about that 2025 point so all that said it's performing pretty well so far and I'm happy to say that the overclocked I've achieved on the CPU and the GPU aren't really that much less or even significantly less at all than what I was achieving on an open test bed or in a full-size case so that's pretty cool next up there's some noise testing because we have this we want to hear what this sounds like so let's start with idle so I will is obviously pretty quiet let's move over to the CPU test so this is with the corsair h 100 IV - doing everything it can to keep the cpu temperatures down while running the i-264 stress test let's listen to that and then we have a gaming audio test this is using Unigine heaven to put a heavy load on the GPU not quite so much on the GPU and this is of course with the GPU overclocked as mentioned so the gaming performance is quite solid that is what we would expect with the GT X 1080 paired with a 7700 K especially when overclocked I wanted to show a little bit of the SSD performance since I do have the P 600 nvme SSD in here from Intel it's going to be faster than a standard SATA SSD but it's difficult without setting up a more strict side-by-side benchmark performance comparison to give you guys a real idea it definitely seems a little bit peppier than a standard SATA SSD does but since SSDs are already pretty fast as it is when it just comes to responsiveness I thought I'd do a quick boot tent since it does seem to boot pretty fast so I've shut down this is using Windows 10 hibernate and I just hit power and maybe there's a maybe I'm timing this or maybe you guys are timing this at it maybe you're just watching the video but hopefully the boot process will happen it's that that that's pretty fast boot I got it I got admit that's probably one of the fastest booting systems and I want to get even setup fast boot in the UEFI settings so I could even do that but let's move on to some final thoughts obviously being a mini ITX build this is on the smaller side but it's not as small as you can go there are some very small footprint systems that you could set up that would be significantly tinier than this however it still fairly diminutive and it still stays within a pretty small footprint so if you needed to move it around or if you needed to take it on the go with you it's not terribly difficult to transport and it's definitely a lot more lightweight than say a full size system with a bunch of hard drives in there I like the diversity and flexibility of the system not just for gaming with the 77k overclocked and the 1080 but also the fact you got 32 gigs of ram and on all SSD storage array means that you could easily use this for video editing or that sort of thing as well I like the finished product just as far as the looks goes it's pretty nice-looking with the tempered glass and the brushed aluminum and I thought everything actually worked very well as far as the color scheme goes mainly black and silver with a little bit of accents the GTX logo of course was always going to stand out on the side there in green but we did have just some very light white LED accents on the Corsair products the Dominator Platinum's and h100 IV - which I thought looked nice without being all gaudy and out there like you know RGB LED systems like I've got behind me over there I also wanted to point out the motherboard here for PA's rock doing a fine job as rock motherboards you know sometimes they get a bad rap but this one might look it's got dual Intel mix got Intel Wi-Fi it's got a crap ton of USB 3.0 on the back it's got a ps2 ports which and I just wanted to point that out but even when it comes to overclocking I was able to pretty much achieve the same level of performance and overclocking to 54.9 gigahertz with this CPU that I was able to with my Maximus 9 hero full-size board back there behind me so that's very cool - so all in all I think it's a great build for anyone who's looking for a high end mini ITX gaming system with advanced capabilities for other things as well especially if you're gaming about 1440 maybe if you're considering ultra-wide like 30 40 by 30 440 by 1440 you can even push it up to 4k depending on the games that you're playing and the system settings that you're using or I mean if you really wanted to juice the system a little bit more just swap that 1080 out for a 1080 Ti that's all for this video though guys I hope you've enjoyed it this has been my February build of the month although it is already mid to late March don't worry my March build is coming also very soon that's going to be a rise in system I finally have all the parts for that so I'm going to be assembling that hits thumbs up button and let me know if you enjoyed this video and also links to all the parts parts that I used is down in the description below thanks again for watching guys and we'll see you next time
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