Gadgetory

hey everyone I'm back I apologize for the delay I didn't have my editing rig for quite a while and I didn't feel like editing on this Lenovo 100's if you're interested in how that experience was you can check out the card above me what I have done is built an entirely new editing rig from the ground up and it's featuring the core i7 6700 K I do have benchmarks ready to go but I'm not going to put them in this video because this video is dedicated to building the PC so I know that most of you who are subscribed to the channel already know how to do this but it never hurts to you know get a nice refresher in there and on top of that you get to see the rig being assembled from the ground up that's kind of nice as well so let's go ahead and jump into the building process without further ado got your pens and notepads ready alright here we go here's a basic parts rundown you'll need a z170 motherboard ours is the Asus z170a ATX board and Intel Core i7 6700 K 16 gigabytes of 3,000 megahertz ddr4 in this case Geils super loose with white LEDs and all-in-one CPU cooler a reliable power supply from a reliable brand preferably 600 watts or above a one terabyte Western Digital black hard disk drive for general storage a P&Y 120 gigabyte solid state drive for a snappy OS arctic silver 5 thermal compound a dedicated graphics card I've gone with an r9 390 for the time being but more on that later and a corsair carbide 400-seat you can check out my review of this case in the card right here it's game time start with your motherboard this Asus z170a is a great choice for a variety of reasons it has a chipset which supports overclocking plenty of voltage regulator modules a dedicated sound driver for 5.1 channel audio native sli and crossfire support an excellent color scheme although I did paint these heatsinks white from their previous gray click the card right here to check out my painting tutorial and finally plenty of rear i/o ports including 5.1 audio USB 3.1 and type-c connectors DVI VGA HDMI and DisplayPort support and 2 USB 3.0 headers accompanied by 2 USB 2.0 counterparts go ahead and grab your processor we'll be using a core i7 6700k a top-of-the-line LGA 1151 CPU it's clock the 4 gigahertz out-of-the-box and should overclock quite nicely the 6700 k-pax 8 megabytes of l3 cache a stock frequency of 4 gigahertz which turbo boost up to 4.2 14 nanometers skyleigh transistor architecture and 4 cores with hyper-threading for a total of 8 threads with your CPU ready pull up the lever to the right of the socket on the motherboard until the door is standing safely upright identify the Golden Triangle on the CPU itself and orient the chip so that it's triangle points in the same direction as the triangle located on the board being extra careful rest the CPU in the socket arrest it do not force it it will only slide in one way simply set the chip down atop the various pins within the socket and then lower the retention arm once again ensuring that the socket hinge itself secures under this screw the arm will require additional force to latch once again this is completely normal no worries the socket cover should pop right off at this point store this somewhere safe in case you ever need to return your motherboard next it's time to install Ram this step is very simple but it does require a bit of unorthodox force once again go ahead and pull out both dims and take note of the notch at the bottoms of both these will need to be aligned with the notches in RAM slots 2 and 4 on the motherboard with the notches aligned and the slot levers 2 and 4 pull back push each dim in to its rightful place additional force is required to suggest starting from one side securing it and then securing the other side subsequently we're replacing these in slots 2 & 4 specifically for dual channel support not bad so far you've installed your CPU and RAM into this beautiful motherboard now we'll need our NZXT kraken X 61 this is a 280 millimeter radiator and comes with two 140 millimeter pulse width modulated fans we want our air in our case flowing through our radiator so we'll orient our fans in such a way that air is pulled through the rad and into our case and subsequently exhaust without the back you may also orient these fans in the opposite direction as I've done in the past to exhaust air out the front of the rad but this method is not condoned by NZXT we'll follow the rules here grab a hold of 8 included washers and long screws and secure the fans to the radiator make sure each of these is turned nice and tight loose fans will be loud and could break much sooner now it's time to start assembling all the little parts and pieces into our 400 C or whatever case you might have chosen start by removing the bottom basement from the 400 C these three screws in the back hold these into place grab another set of eight washers and eight low-profile screws from the x61 bag and mount the radiator to the front of the case ensure each of these screws is completely secure force now grab your power supply in my case I've gone with you ready for this an Eevee today 750 watt B to 80 plus bronze supernova power supply it with modular capabilities secure the unit to the back of your case with the included screws grab the i/o shield that came with the motherboard and snap it into place from all four corners in the i/o slot at the back of your case locate the standoffs screw near the middle of the case and gently lower your motherboard into place using the standoff and the rear i/o as reference points all screw holes should align with the standoffs built into the 400 C now grab a hold of the small parts box included with the case it should be in the hard drive bay and then use the motherboard screws the screws that look like they have washers built into them to secure the motherboard to the chassis in the center stand off I pointed to earlier won't require a screw take the rear bracket from the x61 kit and slide each of the placeholders toward its center most position then slide it through the holes at the back of the motherboard take the standoffs screws that have equal threading lengths on both sides and screw one end into each of the four bracket leads at this point the bracket should be secured to the motherboard read the front bracket which I've painted white through the water block of the cooler and secure it with the small black ring included with the kid as well if this part is confusing you can check out my in-depth guide here once the cooler is prepped we've got one last thing to do before officially mounting it thermal paste I use Arctic silver 5 but any five to six dollar pastes should be fine apply a modest amount over the CFU heat spreader and then secure the water block to the cpu by aligning to the four threads from the standoffs with the inside holes of the front bracket turn with your fingers until the screws build up a significant amount of resistance at all four corners next remove the hard drive cage so that we have plenty of access to modular ports on the power supply with these installed and funneled through the back of the case we'll need to mount our storage devices remove a three and a half inch drive bay from the cage that we just took out and secure the hard drive by aligning the holes in the drive with the pins of the bay a nice tooless feature this is now reinsert the cage with the hard drive and secure it from the back with the included screws grab your SSD I strongly recommend you have one of these with this caliber build and simply secure it to the back of the Corsair 400 C by sliding it into one of the three SSD trays integrated with the case another toolless feature here go and connect it to SATA power as well remove the dust filter at the top of the case and add any extra fans you have laying around I've got an extra two fan text 140 millimeter fans I'll be throwing into my rig oriented downwards to the air is pulling into the case from the top this in tandem with the fan intakes on the radiator should create a nice chamber of positive airflow within the 400 C if you prefer negative air pressure environments these can be turned around and set to exhaust instead if you've got a fan hub secure this to the case as well this one from fantex uses a velcro adhesive to keep the hub in place you'll want to connect the four pin lead from this hub to a four pin header on your motherboard preferably a header labeled CH a1 or CH a2 connect your 24-pin power cable from your power supply to the motherboard as well as this 8 pin CPU power connector which you can funnel through the top left slot in this case and connect the USB 3.0 header as well kind of cable managed as you go using a Seuss's included front i/o assistant plug positive to positive and negative to negative of each wire lead with its corresponding pin on the assistant with all wires secure plug this assistant into the bottom right corner of the motherboard or wherever yours may be refer to your manual grab a hold of your graphics card and peel off its plastic goodness clear 2 PCIe slots at the back of the case ensure the top large slot has its lock disengaged and connect your graphics card after securing it to the back with the included screws connect your power cables in this instance a single 8 pin and a single 6 pin finally connect SATA cables from each of your drive devices to the motherboard ensuring that your SSDs is inserted into the header labeled OS Drive now let's see how we did you there you have it folks the process is not all that complicated now no to a layman someone who's never built a PC before or who has never messed with the internals of a PC the process does sound a bit daunting but I assure you if you follow this video here and the video in this card above me the process is not it's not difficult just take my word for it if you don't believe me take an old computer disassemble it put it back together boom you built a computer and may not be a computer built from scratch but you get my point if you're curious about the performance of this PC be sure to check out the card above me if it's not there it's because you're watching this video the day it was posted and I appreciate your promptness but otherwise check it out it's a unique combination and I 760 700 K paired with an r9 390 which is becoming very very obsolete very very soon AMD has already told me they're sending their RX 484 review and you guys will be seeing that stacked up head-to-head against this 390 which is about $100 more than the RX 480 and we should expect similar performance between the two cards so we'll see how Polaris stacks up against the GCM 1.2 architecture I also have a future well it's already built but I haven't actually edited the cliffs yet a very very old PC that I'm going to attempt to play games on I haven't done that yet because I think it's going to be a very difficult process but if you're like Greg what are you talking about because you're not following me on Twitter I invite you to do so follow me at sc/st Salazar and stay in the loop here in the studio I have a very old PC coming literally under a hundred bucks I actually set 120 in the tweet but that's because I added a few extra things that I eventually took away because I really didn't need them so we're looking at it under $100 potato PC yes it's at the table take my word for it be sure to LIKE this video if you liked it give it a dislike if you feel the complete opposite or if you hate everything about life click Subscribe but if you haven't already stay tuned for all of these cool unique videos coming to the channel very soon now that I have this new bright and shiny editing rig behind me this is science studio thanks for learning with us you