Gadgetory

this build really makes no sense I mean two weeks ago I was telling all of you not to purchase an FX processor period because then is just around the corner and we're talking about a CP that relies on PCI Express 2.0 and doesn't even use ddr4 nonetheless got the platform for a very great price and while browsing on Newegg last week I came across an AMD sapphire r9 fury for a whopping 280 US dollars a deal I could not pass up me being me so I purchased the card got here today I put the rest of the rig together today and decided to do a step-by-step tutorial for all of you interested in building an AMD gaming PC not something I would advise for most gamers but if you're a baller on a budget you're considering I don't own aim the FX 8300 100 that's your absolute max you can spend on a CPU kind of makes sense to go with an FX 8350 20 II which is slightly higher clocked and slightly more efficient in terms of power consumption but across the board you're gonna get a full eight cores which will benefit you in DirectX 12 and thanks to the r9 fury you build a game in 1440p no problem maybe a little light 4k as well I wouldn't say GTA 5 and 4k or battlefield 1 in 4k but you get the point some light 4k gaming too so you're going to be relatively future-proof I'll show you the benchmarks in a separate video this is the step by step build guide here goes for this build a few things were compromised and still a few others were overkill to the max it's just that it's my fault it compromises the motherboard in the CPU cooler but I bought this motherboard from Micro Center for 15 bucks see this video here if you're a bit curious as to how that happened so that's my excuse there and it comes with surround sound audio support and dedicated graphics something FX processors don't have built-in it's also in the micro ATX form factor which means it'll look really weird in our ATX case again whatever as for the CPU cooler I debated whether to use the deep cool captain 240 X but went for the stock cooler because I wanted to save some money and you all know how I feel about stock CPU coolers oh yeah ah what is that can you hold the camera with it what are we doing Greg it's really complicated or okay yep mmm yeah okay now for the overkill first the case it was sent to me from entities and I just had to use it I mean it's it's white it's beautiful and sporting tempered glass on all three sides for the sake of keeping our budget in check though I'm listing an NZXT s340 also in the description it's a much cheaper and it's still beautiful option more in line with the build like this the other overkill component is the power supply I only had a 1000 watt p2 from EVGA on hand and the excuse there is well I don't know I really don't have an excuse but I did link a solid 800 watt power supply much cheaper in the description the graphics card we're going with the AMD sapphire r9 fury demands up to 400 watts under the most strenuous GPU torque your tests when unlocked so an 800 watt power supply will keep us well within the efficiency curve to begin building remove your motherboard from its anti-static wrap and place it on top of its box this will serve as a makeshift test bench / assembly prop next remove your CP from its box ours is the FX 8320 II being careful not to touch any of it spins align the golden arrow on the chip with the white arrow on the board lifts the socket lever and place the chip in the socket then all you need to do is lower the retention arm once more until the CPU is secured in place boom you've installed a CPU grab a hold of a stock cooler or whatever cooler you intend to use and prepared for installation if you're using a third-party cooler refer to its corresponding manual for this whole thing here all we need to do is latch both ends of the beam underneath the black mounting points it should look like these here once both ends are wrapped around these points rotate the black lever on the cooler 180 degrees your cooler should now be fastened tightly to your CPU and motherboard you can use it as a handle of sorts to lift and move your motherboard from now on it's a better option than touching the PCB itself the last thing we need to knock out here is Ram installation g.skill provided 8 gigabytes into 4 gigabyte variants of their sniper series ddr3 running at 1866 megahertz these DIMMs are also linked in this video description and come highly recommended referencing our motherboard manual we need to install these modules into slots 1 and 3 so pull back on their locking mechanisms orient each module per the notch in each slot and use force to insert each I set each a lot there sorry about that the clip on either side should snap into their locking positions once they've been properly secured we're finished with the motherboard for now so set it along with its box to the side grab a hold of your power supply at this point if it's modular it'll come with several detached cables many of which you'll need to pre install if your PSU is non modular everything will be wired directly into the box to begin with in our case everything including the 24 pin and EPS cables is modular with the peripherals we'll be using in mind grab the 24 pin and CPU cables to VGA eight pin cables a SATA cable and a molex cable both SATA and mullux denote power and data transfer interfaces modern components will only use SATA but our cases integrated fan hub requires a single molex connector as well you can watch my review of this case by clicking the card right here with necessary cables connected remove the right side panel of your case and insert the power supply if you're using NZXT s340 you'll need to attach a bracket and slide it in directly from the back using your cases included PSU screws the box with screws and tie straps is usually located any hard drive Bay fasten the power supply to the rear of the case being sure to orient it fan side down so long as the case is adequate ventilation underneath we should also install storage drives at this point things become very crammed once other wiring commences remove your SSD and/or hard drive from its box and take advantage of the brackets provided for an SSD it's as simple as removing one of the three trays using for peripheral screws to fasten the drive and sliding the bracket back into place held there by a single thumb screw I didn't throw on a hard drive originally because I plan to use the one from Heisenberg for running gaming benchmarks but I've linked a one terabyte Western Digital blue in the description which I recommend for general file storage be sure to install your operating system however on the SSD while we're back here plug in the SATA power and data cable SATA cables should be in your motherboards box don't worry about connecting the other end of this cable until after we finished installing the motherboard speaking of which let's do that next lay your case on its side keeping track of all cables pull out your motherboards i/o shield and snap it into the long rectangular cutout at the back of the case next to the fan opening this will take some force and is perhaps the most frustrating part of PC building I know hard to believe you'll see what I mean though next using your CPU cooler as a handle of sorts gently lower your motherboard into the case using both the i/o shield and the include motherboard standoffs as guides once it is in place use the included screws to secure it since this is a micro ATX board we'll only have to worry about six screws the larger ATX boards will require eight or nine now turn your case back on its feet let's tackle the small wiring there should be a strand of cables along the back of the case that connect to the front IO ports USBs the power and reset buttons etc our motherboard doesn't have a USB 3.0 header so we can set this blue cable aside but we do need to wire our hard drive LED power button reset button and power LED leads there should be a header on the motherboard with corresponding labels down toward the bottom of this header isn't marked left - located in your motherboards manual and connect the cables to the respective pins I changed my mind this is the most frustrating part don't forget about the HD audio cable either which plugs into a header on the bottom left side of this board use the gap in the pin array as a guide if USB 2.0 cables are present as well and included with other peripherals or coolers plug them into their respective headers at the bottom of the board lastly pull the SATA cable connected on one end to your SSD up through a cutout and connected to a marked SATA hub on the board if you have any extra drives connect them to subsequent SATA hubs now we're ready for the graphics card this is the r9 fury sporting a 4096 bit memory bus eight bits in a byte which means it's capable of up to 512 gigabytes of memory transfer per second all thanks to sack of all HBM as I said a bit earlier I found it on Newegg for 280 bucks and have it linked in this video's description although I expect they'll be sold out very soon so jump on that if you haven't already to install this card remove the two shields on the back aligning with the first full-length PCI Express slot it's the only one on this motherboard push back on the latch and slide the graphics card into place you should hear a firm click when it's fastened appropriately then take the two screws you removed from the back and while holding the card upright screw them back into the rear of the case they should keep the card relatively flat versus slanting downward while connected to the motherboard now it's time to route power cables to the graphics card and motherboard start with the VGA cables we needed two of them for this particular card as it's rather power-hungry funnel them through the rubber grounded cutout over the basement and connect both to the two eight pin headers on the r9 fear they should click once they're fully inserted do the same for the 8 pin CPU cable will only need one half of this for this particular board it isn't the greatest overclocker but 15 bucks I'm not complaining funnel the 24 pin cable through as well and connect it to the large header on the board again wait for the click that's how you'll know when it's properly secured with that turn the case back around and cable manage as best you can take the time to verify that no peripheral is left unplugged as well I almost forgot the molex fan hub connector use tie straps and zip ties to route cables accordingly spare no expense especially in a case like this with a see-through panel especially on the right hand side which is rather unorthodox even though it will likely be facing a wall it's good practice in general once everything's tidy reapply both the front and rear panels clean up any blemishes connect it to a surge protected outlet and give it a go so there you have it folks I hope you enjoyed the build log if you have any other questions or concerns be sure to leave those in the comments below I I'm not sure what I'm gonna name this PC I don't think it's gonna last very long I'll probably put it up on Craigslist or something and try to sell it for what I paid for basically I don't really think that I'm going to keep it around very long but I do want to test the r9 fury in Heisenberg I think it'd be interesting to see how much better or worse Heisenberg fares with an r9 Theory versus at single gtx 1070 so I think the 1070 is a more powerful card but in DirectX 12 that margins shrink and if it does by how much so interesting videos on the way thanks for watching the build blog be sure to give this video a thumbs up if you thought it was cool give it a thumbs down if you do feel the complete opposite or if you hate everything of my life I had too much sugar in my coffee this morning be sure to subscribe if you haven't we - stay tuned for those benchmarks I was just talking about this is Salazar studio thanks for building with us