Gadgetory

what's up everyone as always let's jump right into the meat of this video I have right here a reference PCB 1080 TI from accelerate to card which I've reviewed in a video right here we're going to place the stock air cooler for a thermal take water block this is an acrylic block with a copper base similar to the ones I use in Andromeda for the 1080 s in there and this is a course compatible with the reference TI PCB it's a pretty straightforward process you'll see that wells coming up right now so pretty much the only thing we're going to need for this entire teardown and replacement process is a small tool kit now I recommend having some Torx screws in here some very small ones just in case you never know with your particular card if we want to do customization Torx screws would come in handy but I think just for the regular teardown process a few sets of small Phillips heads will be sufficient maybe a flathead here or there just to help pry things up need be I don't expect what this card will have much difficulty at all so moving the cooler and of course everything else that we're going to need for the replacement process is included in Thermaltake TI box now before we even touch what is inside this box we're going to need to tear down the air cooler take it off stripped everything down to just the circuit board I recommend getting a good look for what we're going to need to remove starting first with what it looks like these four screws holding in the air cooler itself these surround the GPU usually so it looks like yeah just that four screws hold it's the entire air cooler in place also bear in mind that you will have probably two or three fan cables to disconnect as you're removing the cooler from the circuit board by the way a magnetic screwdriver comes in very handy and instances like these alright so those four screws are off now let's see if we can there we go well queue the bit of force sometimes the stock thermal paste is a bit sticky so don't pull too hard you might have a screw that's still holding things together but if you have everything off you're sure about and just kind of give it a gentle nudge and there you go in this case the entire air cooler is removed with a simple four screws now at this point you want to use preferably a lint-free cloth to remove the stock thermal compound from the GPU die I'm using toilet paper that's just because I don't have a lift free cloth around at this point it it's okay you're going to have just ten Yule microfibers everywhere then you're also going to want some isopropyl alcohol preferably 90% or above and maybe something like a q-tip to get the small crevices around the die try to remove as much of the stock thermal compound as possible prepping it for the new compound we're going to apply here in a second undo maybe a little something that right there and you can take the q-tip and roll it around and there get it soaked up as much as possible then we're going to clean the die should look nice and shiny when it's all set done once the die is clean and dry use your own thermal compound thermal take includes their own so that's what we're going to do here no matter what you do with this pattern you're always going to get chopped somewhere in the comments so whatever I'll make it look like that no way a bunch of people will have reason to complain again though as long as it's covering the whole thing by the time you sandwich the cooler on it's okay if you had a little too much it'll be fine you'll be good to go from a thermal perspective get it because it's thermal take by the way we're not down to the bare PCB at this piece right here needs to be removed as well as the backplate although I guess in this case you could leave the backplate on it's not really hurting anything but for the sake of consistency here you might have a backplate that is incompatible with your acrylic blocks we're going to go ahead and remove it all okay there's the backplate no longer needed and it looks like the last thing we need to remove here is the heatsink over the v RMS and MOSFETs okay this is taking a bit of force and be careful though there we go so there's just a bunch of thermal pads on the backside sometimes you get sticky just like the stock thermal compound will so just be careful not to bend the board or break anything on the board in the removal process so that's it this is the bare 1080 TI reference PCB nothing else on here except what belongs on the circuit board itself so with that we can go ahead and open up the box that thermal tie gave us support from what I already pulled out which was just the included little tool driver here and a thermal compound everything else in the box we now need so what you'll get in this thermal tape kit function manuals this is the back plate really nice that they include one of those underneath the course remember you get the the driver as well as the thermal compound you also get a couple of these G quarter-inch caps and the screw set a bunch of thermal pads and lastly the acrylic block check out how beautiful this thing is I love the way it looks especially on camera you guys are getting while I'm doing y'all such a solid right now check that out and here is the copper base underneath with a nickel plating now the next step according to the manual we want to place thermal pads here here here these are the vram modules by the way and then back here over the mosfet so we need to cut these down to size you can just do this by hand just kind of eyeball it it's okay if it hangs a little over just make sure that you're covering everything lay one down right there our second one right here in front our third ones going here so this is an 11 gigabyte card right so 11 gigs of VRAM so each module is a one gig module so we have four eight nine ten there's a blank here would be twelve but this is the GP one or two card there's the eleventh one now very mine we do still have the plastic on the tops here we'll take these off once we prepare the acrylic block okay there's our next one and the manual says the last piece needs to be right here a bit thinner okay there we go that's it just pull off these plastic tops try not to touch these with your bare hands you'll get oils on them and that will impede the ability for these pads to transfer heat okay time for the merge at this point go ahead and take your acrylic block now align the cutouts in the acrylic itself with the caps on the board if you can use the eight pin six pin as well depends on the board that you have but you should use things that are cut out in the acrylic to align it properly just kind of set it on there Jimmy this is a pretty heavy block most of them will be hold the block in place once it's aligned flip it over be careful don't let the block fall when it's upside down take ten plastic washer and then one of the screws with the springs included and I'll align that up as best you can screw it in place and there you go the block should be relatively stable at this point is kind of a two-man job because you have to hold the acrylic block up you also have to somehow guy to screw into that hole that first one's always difficult but once you get past that first one the blocks pretty much in place just set the other screws and where they belong and you'll have a secure acrylic block and there's number four all right four screws around the GPU check now the rest of these threads are here for added stability don't miss a single one of them where you'll have a sagging water block definitely not good okay now the rest of these threads this one here here here here here and here are for the backplate so we're going to install the backplate next this part is pretty straightforward just match up the threads and you should be good to go now it doesn't have any thermal properties so it will get hot but it won't pull Heat specifically away from vital components on the board nonetheless it is still nice that thermal tape included one and there you go that is literally the entire installation process again not very complicated I don't even use the manual anymore because it's pretty straightforward with any block that you use some will have special wiring instructions I'm going to be installing a fan text block onto a TI here soon that comes with included LED kits and whatnot but this right here is just a pretty straightforward rudimentary water block all we're going to need now let's check out some thermals now disclaimer I did not yet install the 1080 TI water block into a custom loop it's a lot of work to do that so I'm saving that for a separate video but this is a 1080 just a regular 1080 water block before and after install so the first temperature you're seeing here in yellow the sixty nine degree low temperature was with a a CX 3.0 EVGA cooler on the car so just an air cooler and then when we swap that for the thermal take 1080 block those temperatures lowered under load 261 degrees Celsius something else important to note the idle temperatures did not change at all and this is because I recorded idle temperatures after the low temperature so you don't get really true idle temps until after you've let things settle down after a pretty long day of intensive tasks and those temperatures love it all for both the air cooler and the liquid cooler at 28 degrees Celsius apiece this mind you is with a single 360 millimeter AIO for the thermal tape block and just the regular stock fan rpm settings full or the EVGA cooler now keep in mind that eight degree Delta doesn't seem all that compelling especially when you consider the price of a full-on custom loop can cost upwards of $2,000 for a full custom loop PC build and that's just in the custom Lib gear alone depending on how fancy you want to get with it so I don't want you to look at just the temperatures to kind of rationalize this custom loops are always going to be a bit excessive they're not going to be the best price per dollar thing you can do with your PC but another factor to consider is sound when you custom cool a graphics card apart from the fluid actually moving through the card which you won't really hear unless you put your ear right up next to it a custom cooled card is pretty much inaudible whereas if you had an air-cooled card things would get pretty loud as you put that graphics card under load now that's not to say the custom loop pcs can't be loud it depends on your fan curve settings depends on how big your radiator is how big your fans are and your overclocks but generally speaking you can move the sound away from your graphics card to somewhere else in your system and typically lower your fan curve to that of a much more tolerable rpm the addition of this point still won't justify the price ultimately of a custom loop PC but for those who have already set aside the money who are determined to spend that much on custom gear heck you can make pretty awesome-looking pcs with custom loop parts then installing a graphics card waterblock is pretty much mandatory unless you just want to cool your cpu in which case I don't really see the point all that much unless you just want it to look cool and you want really stellar CPU overclocks but you're not worried about your graphics cards but it's a gaming PC you should 9 times out of 10 cool your graphics cards - in which case this video would come in handy for most of you if you liked this video by the way be sure to give it a thumbs up thumbs down for the opposite click subscribe but if you haven't already now we'll catch you in the next video we're going to be reviewing a gigabyte ITX arisin motherboard looks really cool and it won't break the bank it's also a small form factor this is signed studio thanks for building with us you