Gadgetory

meet my personal rig now what I mean by that is I probably spend the most time on this machine and many of you were asking what the specs were of my personal rig so I've got it right here in front of you and I'm gonna talk briefly about the specs and then I also want to get straight to the deal itting because I'm a little frustrated with the temperatures right now and I'm a little too stubborn to switch out the cooler so this isn't like a super beefy cooler it's very modest this is the cry or eh 7 quad Lumi so it steps up the TDP just a little bit over the regular h7 but with the overclock that I have running on it temperatures are getting pretty spicy especially when I'm rendering so we're gonna try D letting see if we can lower those temps and maybe even crank out a few extra hundred megahertz or so across all six cores if you're still looking for an all-around excellent headset the Sennheiser PC 37 X has you covered excellent microphone incredible sound as always from Sennheiser products and a price that won't break the bank check the link the video description for more details so the system supports an Intel Core i7 8700 K and it's running at 5 gigahertz right now like I said pretty toasty especially on this like roughly 150 watt TDP cooler from crier rig but I like the way it looks a lot and I'm gonna set a person I want something to look as good as it performs so I'm trying to find a healthy middle ground and that's why D linton's gonna come in handy today the choice between an i7 and an r7 CPU was a tough one I game mostly on this system and that's where the i7 has a slight edge so that's why I've stuck with this one of my personal rig although I do most of my video editing and rendering on the r7 2700 X custom we build it's back behind me and that's what I did this video one just for example the gtx 1070 TI EVGA this is a beefy 3 slot card here is a super quiet card I recommend it the 1070 Ti is a very healthy metal ground between mid to heavy 1440p gaming and even some light 4k game if you really want to get into that eye game at 1440p 165 Hertz this card is perfect for that even a 1070 would be fine for it you could probably squeak down to a 1063 limit drop some in game settings back and pretty much max anything out in 1440p with this card and the the extra power draw right with a 2 8 pin vga supplemental power connections gives me a healthy overclock as well I am running I believe it's just 16 gigs of 3,000 megahertz Corsair dump lats I like the way they look the silver complements the motherboard nicely this is the Maximus 10 ROG board from a Suzy 370 of course I have a 1000 watt be quiet power supply in here it's semi modular but we have custom sleeve cables from Tony his channel is linked down below its ability pc customs i love the stuff that he doesn't miss channel i also love the cables that he sends us he's like super sexy and I've used them for like 10 builds now because I love purple I love the ambience the the overall aesthetic of this build I do have a couple more be quiet silent weeks three fans up front it's super quiet a relatively cheap exhaust fan but I just turned this all the way down DC mode in the BIOS and that's basically it storage I have 500 gig em got to drive behind the graphics card and then I have a 2 terabyte hard disk drive in the front here the case of course is a fractal design mesh if I see I have the non tinted tempered glass version that's what I recommend I don't think that tempered glass it's tinted would look good with a build like this because it would pretty much hide the cables and other things that I want to show off and that is about it so now we're gonna get to the deleting process I'm gonna show you step by step how I did it this is the first time I've ever used liquid metal - you know reattach the IHS to the die and then I use a liquid metal again to attach the cooler to the IHS so a double layer of liquid metal and a double layered sandwich of sorts it's gonna be interesting I want to see what the temps are hopefully it's worth it hopefully I don't have a failed D lid let's cross our fingers and let's go through the steps alright so to start things off we do need that baseline I have the h7 quad Lumi cryocooler cooling the 8500 k RV core is 1.35 I could probably tweak that just a bit more but I'm not worried about doing too many things in the BIOS right now just because it doesn't matter as long as we keep the same settings before and after the delayed so 1.3 5 volts and 5 gigahertz and here are the results this is what we have up front I'm gonna run out of 64 and get another set of thermals just so we can compare two different benchmarks and then we'll throw some games at it and show again before and afters there so the important thing to note we had about 2% of thermal throttling here on the cinnamon run and now we're gonna run the I to 64 stress test for about 10 minutes or so and see our maximum thermal throttling percentage also keep in mind T Junction for coffee lake is approximately hundred degrees Celsius meaning that anything at or just below 100 degrees Celsius will results in severe thermal throttling the only two percent here isn't too significant but we didn't have you know straight up peg of 100 degrees during our stress test it was just under that so the CPU predicted that the cores would reach that temperature and that's why they thermal throttled before and kind of despair itself which is a smart technique and obviously you don't want to see if you're running that hot all the time so that's why thermal throttling takes place T Junction is again that threshold and we're gonna see how quickly we hit it and how long we can maintain at or just below T Junction with the CPU thermal throttling for about 10 minutes and ok I'm not gonna let it go for 10 minutes turns out just one minute will do it we're thermal throw out upwards of 25% and our cores are staying pegged at or just below 100 degrees Celsius I really feel comfortable we see 99 degrees on that one core there I don't feel comfortable keeping the CPU at this at these temperatures for very long so I'm gonna go ahead and stop it and that was more less to preview that it's relatively stable and we're again gonna take this result here I guess we'll just do a one-minute comparison between the two it's not uh it's not a very accurate comparison because the time span is so short but this is the I mean this is a dire situation we're in right running at 5 here it's one point three five volts on coffee lake so let's go ahead and deal it and then I'll tally up some numbers and we'll compare them in some graphs and see just what the deltas actually were so the daily keep we're gonna use today comes straight from Durr Bower in Germany we used his i-90 lead kit in this video right here and I was very impressed with how easy it was to use I do it at a two thousand dollar processor that's how much I trusted his products so I fully endorse their Bower delayed kits if you guys want to do it anything I recommend going straight through him these tools are very well-made very efficient very easy to use basically stress-free I think the cat is destroying stuff in the background so like I said the deal in process with this kit is very simple you have two primary components here this is the base plate whatever you want to call it I just call it the base plate it's got their Bowers logo on it it's got a white arrow right here and this denotes the orientation of the CPU so line this white arrow up like you would and socket of a motherboard that is the correct orientation CPU should be sitting when you delete it take this tool right here it's just a small bracket that slides into the base plate and you're gonna wedge it fully against the IHS of the CPU and then take this screw thread it through the base plate until it becomes very difficult to turn anymore basically you're pulling this bracket into the IHS that's how you're gonna delay the CPU it's not going to take much force but the coffee lay excuse it took a lot more force with the i9 that's why that delayed tool was much beefier but this one here maybe one or two turns passed when you can't turn any more of your fingers using this tool will remove the IHS you'll see it kind of slide forward not and that will indicate that it has become detached from the substrate below it basically it's glued right to the chip and when you dislodge that glue the IHS will kind of slide around you can kind of pry it up any way you want just be careful because you don't want to damage the dye underneath now this is where opinions begin to shine because there isn't one set way to do this next part when you have the IHS removed I recommend scrubbing all of the glue residue off of the chip at first and then you can decide from there whether you want to remove it also from the IHS and then reglue the IHS after you have added the liquid metal or you could keep the glue residue on the IHS and just decide to let the IHS rest over the chip which is what I did so I actually didn't use any glue to attach the IHS back to the substrate it just kind of sits there as long as you turn your case down you just let the IHS rest there when you install it into the socket you don't have to really worry about the glue because the mechanism itself includes a lot of tension right so the IHS isn't gonna move around once you secure the socket lever and that's exactly what I did you can see I had no problems with it and that's almost recommended because you could apply too much glue if you don't know what you're doing between the IHS and the substrate and that would result in a too big of a gap between the die and the IHS meaning that you're gonna have improper contact he won't transfer efficiently and your deal it will fail I've also heard of people using double sided tape to temporarily hold the IHS in place kind of getting ahead of ourselves though because we haven't actually applied the liquid metal yet a speaking of that I went with thermal Grizzlies conduct a notch stuff and this is pretty mainstream for liquid metal dee lids I recommend them essentially you want to wipe everything down with these alcohol pads then make sure everything is dry and then add just a tiny pinprick of liquid metal to the die you can use the included cotton swabs to spread it all out it can be a little stubborn the surface tension on this stuff is very weird it doesn't behave like water it's actually like super sticky in a way even though it's not like glue it's very runny so be careful and you don't want this stuff to run over the edge of your CPU because remember it is conductive this is conducted on after all it took a while but I spread it out as evenly as I could even when it seems like there's not enough on there trust me there is you're also going to want to apply some to the eye side of the CPU as well try to keep it as consistent as possible the IHS really only makes contact with a die over the die surface area so if you are spreading it over extra parts of the IHS you're really doing yourself no good because those parts of the chip don't really produce any viable heat you can see mine's not perfect but as long as you're covering all the die area you should be fine but remember the closer you get to perfection the more efficient the IHS of the cpu will be this isn't like direct die mounting right that's even more efficient because we're removing a thermal barrier but it's pretty darn close and direct die mounting is just a pain especially with these kinds of sockets the next thing I did was lay my case down flat I want the socket pointing up because I did not glue my IHS remember so it's gonna slide around especially for installing this vertically I don't want that I don't want to have to hold the IHS in place all the time so lay it down flat and then if you press on the IHS enough it will not move when you install the socket when you remount it and remember that's gonna put a lot of pressure on the IHS so it won't move after that we can now lay our case back up right now upon first boot again you shouldn't have to you know clear your seamos there's really nothing that's gonna change here because all you did was remove your CPU and effectively reinstall it so everything should be able to remain the same you will have to go in and recalibrate anchors and all that good stuff you will don't want to check temperatures right away because if you notice a really you know sharp dip in idles and low temperatures then you're gonna want to probably take advantage of the extra overclocking Headroom if not you're gonna have a super quiet system maybe that's what you were going for either way it's a win-win alright and initial results right after the deal it'd the exact same specs the exact same BIOS settings 1.3 5 v core and 5 gigahertz check out these temps in I 264 so this is the CPU stress test and you can see we have about a 20 to 25 degree Delta by doubling down on our liquid metal application so we have liquid metal between the die and the IHS and between the IHS and the cryo rig CPU cooler you can see we're coming up in on the 10 minute mark and we have absolutely no CPU throttling there's no reason for it to exist because our temperatures are well below t-junction right now we're hovering just under ninety degrees Celsius and with an air cooler it's gonna basically be level by this point temperature-wise so this is the peak you can see temperatures are relatively stable they do dip down quite a bit it's not as consistent as I would have hoped so occasionally can see these cores are dropping to about 70 degrees Celsius that core hit that's the highest temperature I've seen yet 93 degrees Celsius this just might not be a very well pinch if you see some people getting five point to five point three gigahertz with their 8700 KS this is a marketing sample it's a sample that they sent to motherboard manufacturers so they're not gonna be the best they're more or less used for bio stability testing and that's probably why the results here aren't that great but I wasn't looking for extreme overclock by any means I just wanted a cooler system a quieter system overall and that's exactly what we have with these temps here and this isn't you know the beefiest cooler around this is a pretty modest cooler 150 or so watt TDP so it's doing a great job given the circumstances staying relatively quiet under full load so I'm gonna summarize these graphs just a bit definitely a sharp drop in especially idle temperatures the idles at 5 gigahertz at 1.3 5 volts before or about 45 degrees Celsius or so those dropped to about 35 between 35 and 40 really every core kind of goes up and down and that can vary depending on whether or not you're manually setting your V core or if you have an offset or if you're letting it run auto which I don't recommend because a lot of these motherboards will pump too much voltage through the CPU especially when you don't need it they're gonna run harder than normally systems gonna run louder than normal just manually set it and you'll be better off trust me now in regards to loads we also saw a significant drop in overall temperatures from 95 and a hundred degrees Celsius initially without the delayed to about 75 it was between 75 and 85 degrees Celsius usually it did spike just a little bit occasionally sometimes we'd hit 90 degrees Celsius and I think that just has to do with the fact that all I was really doing was tweaking the voltage that's it I wasn't playing with base clock or anything else in the BIOS so maybe I can fine-tune it I'm actually right now running at 1.32 volts so I was able to squeak it down just a little bit the deal it won't really fix that the CPU is itself is actually gonna determine the you know voltage tolerance not really the delay the tea lid just fixes a temperature aspect of the issue so I could actually you know voltage just a bit more coulda done that beforehand as well but overall about 80 to 85 degrees Celsius at our full load and that's at 5 gigahertz across all six cores which is impressive for any CPU let alone one that originally runs pretty hot so in closing if you consider yourself an enthusiast I strongly recommend this kit if you're rocking an i7 or I fire from the last two or so generations KB lay coffee like especially they're gonna benefit the most from the D lid and honestly I mean how many CPUs do you hear about being RMA usually it's the motherboard or the power supply even the graphics card or storage drive right now how many CPUs legitimately died just from running hard even when you're gaming or content creating so unless you royally screw something up there in the dilute process it's worth the boarding the warranty it really is it sucks that we have to do it Intel should never use that terrible thermal interface material that they've been using ever again hopefully the next generation is soldered on like rise ins but it's Intel you know I'm not gonna hold it in to really tiny nothing's gonna surprise me from them at this point so yeah it sucks we have to do it but ultimately it's what we have to do if we want great overclocks and herb our skit is the one I do recommend I've actually used two different delayed kits and this is the one I prefer because it's so simple to use straight up you know a few different tools here you combine and the delayed process like I said takes about five minutes it's very quick you know to to apply the liquid metal which is a very inconsistent liquid it's definitely different than water the way it behaves and then reapplying your CPU cooler all that jazz will take about thirty minutes in total but it's worth it it's worth the price of the kit and it's worth a warranty void in my opinion again though those are pros and cons you need to weigh leave a comment in the comment section below and give it a thumbs up if you thought it was cool dislike the video 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