Gadgetory

what's going on everyone so you guys remember this bill just a couple of videos ago this is actually Lisa's custom yellow and black theme to bill but there's a problem and many of you pointed this out you were not too pleased with the yellow coating on this graphics card now I don't regret painting this part yellow what I do regret throw is not painting the rest of this black and once a few of you started saying that I started to realize more and more you know what they're all right it would look so much better if this this you know kind of silver metallic shroud here was painted black to match the rest of the bill which is predominantly black and yellow now my initial thinking was like okay well there's a tiny sliver of silver in the cable Mod Pro cables up here and maybe that could you know set things off but it doesn't really do that for me and I completely understand why so many of you were upset with the graphics card in particular so what we're gonna do is actually we're gonna use two different types of paint here you're wondering what that meant a light paint is for bear with me first off though we're going to use this rest oleum this is like auto enamel it's a little different than what we use before but this is metal and it is supposed to work well with metal components so we're gonna paint using this for the outside perimeter of the card so all the silver metal you see here will be painted a gloss black which should you know look similar to the yellow gloss that we have around that particular section of the card but then I want to do something just a little different and I'm gonna run test before and after to confirm this but we're gonna use this for Stoli a metallic paint here to paint the heatsink inside behind this little plastic panel here silver or metallic so I think that if we invert the colors and we make the inside silver and the rest of the card black then it'll fit almost perfectly with our cable color scheme up top so yeah to be honest I really don't know how this is gonna look I think it'll look better than it already does but if we are just not pleased with the end result then I could always just you know use nail polish remover and just scrub all this paint off and start from scratch but I really think that inverting the colors will do this card justice because there's too much silver in it now I totally agree because the rest of the bill does not have any black in it so I think inverting the color it's gonna look really good I'm going to show you guys step-by-step how to tear the founders edition card and then talk about how I paint a little more detail than I did in the last video involving this build so let's get started the Sennheiser PC 37 X is a new take on gaming headsets prioritizing both a sleek design and optimal comfort that's a tricky combo their audio is top-notch as always that's no surprise but the microphone here is a thing of a beauty you're actually listening to it right now not bad for a plug-and-play headset click the link in the video description for more details all right so what you'll find with these founders Asian cards they are very well build they're very happy they're also a pain to disassemble completely and it's easy to isolate the the board from the rest of the cooler but to take apart the cooler to the extent that we need to to be able to paint the little heat sink in here also this silver shroud is going to require a full teardown and there are probably 30 or 40 screws to consider when doing such a thing I had to do that when I first painted this part of the shroud here so it's gonna be time-consuming now but I'll show you guys step-by-step everything you need to take care of so the first thing we'll need to remove is the back plate and you can see we have tiny screws Phillips screws all across both back plates I actually lost a screw here not that it matters because the card is vertically mounted and then this groove broke off so these are actually kind of a pain depending on how well they're torqued into the cooler just be very careful with this make sure that you have an appropriately sized Phillips head screwdriver these are very small a lot smaller than these four here holding the board in place so I recommend having something like I fix it kits will be pretty good for this I have just a smaller cobalt set and I used the smallest Phillips head available that's this one here grips pretty well don't strip these screws if you do you're gonna have a terrible time trying to take this thing apart and you'll see the backplate comes in two sections so at once the first section is removed here toward the right side of the card just go ahead and set this to the side now you're probably wondering why this is a green piece to be in a darker typical founder's reference card PCB and that is because I actually did something and the during this next step when I was originally dissecting the card that killed the board so it wouldn't post the card would not show up red as anything and it wouldn't even receive power and I think it had to do with something I pulled off the board accidentally when I was unscrewing these little hexagonal I mean what you want to call them but they're screws on one end so you have to have a tool that either grips completely around each of these hex heads or you have to use some sort of like gripping tool and just untwist it that way that's what I did because I don't have a hex tool that untwist this small actually I do but it's in the garage and I'm a little lazy so I just used some needlenose pliers to twist these out but these actually hold the PCB to the cooler not just these four Phillips screws here so you want to remove all of these this is probably the most intense part of the disassembly here only because the tool required is not like you know it's not a common household tool and if you do use something like pliers you want to be very careful not to Nick any of these smaller resistors and transistors all across the PCB that's what I did that's why the other board died and that's why we're stuck with an ugly green one now so once you remove the smaller screws you have these last four Phillips screws here with these little Springs underneath to remove be careful because the GPU is right between them also we do have two Phillips screws here on the rear i/o plate to remove this one here as well as this one and then the board should completely detach from the cooler and now with all screws removed very carefully remove the PCB from the cooler try not to bend the board because you could dislodge things including the GPU from the board so we're gonna try to there we go now there is one connection here between the cooler and the board and that is for the fans actually depending on the model you might have more than one connection maybe four LEDs I disconnected that because this cardigan is sitting vertically I didn't want ugly green letters here so I just went ahead and took it out completely and then this one other connection for the fan will have to worry about there we go and now the board is entirely separated from the cooler so for this next one you're going to need a 5/64 hex and a 3/32 hex the larger one will be for the four hex screws the surrounding the shroud that we just painted and then the smaller hex screw will be for these four as well as these screws on the side both on the top and bottom all right so here is every piece of a founders edition gtx 1070 save the PCB and the backplate and of course the screws this is everything and you can see it's quite a bit here most companies third-party manufacturers at least we use just a few parts you have one solid backplate usually one solid front plate if you will and then two fans well you can see there's a lot more going on here so this is the piece we're going to paint the largest piece we're also going to paint the backside of this this will also be black I think I'm going to leave these silver that'll be nice little trim pieces they go on the sides and I just want to have a little bit of silver still in there and then this is the basically heatsink this is a big block here and we're going to clean this up make sure that you clean your components before you paint them and then we will try our best to paint this a smooth metallic color the first thing you should do is clean the surface you're trying to paint it should be a pretty obvious point here no hair no dust any of that that gets trapped under the paint will look terrible in post the other thing is to make sure that your environment is sealed I use a box and I try to paint indoors if possible do it next to a window so that there aren't any unwanted fumes stuck in the room after the fact if you have a fan you can turn that on don't turn it on high though because you might blow dust around while the paint is trying to dry make sure to shake the spray can vigorously before you start spraying have a few test sprays first off to the side not actually on the objects you can get used to how intense the spray is going to be before you actually start applying the paint I recommend beginning to spray while pointing away from the object and then while spraying swooped over the object and then stop spraying once your pointing away from the object on the other side of it this will prevent overspray especially when you begin spraying in the beginning you might haven't wanted splotches show up if you start spraying immediately onto the object I recommend between four and five coats for a process like this the application of course will depend on the object and how heavy each coat is though in general I found it around four or five codes is plenty the more the merrier as long as it doesn't look like it's just been dipped in a jar of paint and lastly make sure that these objects are properly dried before you begin touching them with your hand the paint is not completely dry you will move the paint around you will have fingerprints on the object and that will look terrible in post so please please please be patient even if you are unsure of whether or not the paint is dry or not wait a few more hours that's right I said hours because some paint will take quite a while to dry and depending on the environment if it's very humid outside very hot that paint may take even longer to dry all right so it is like 2:00 in the morning I'm not going to talk very loud out but you can see kind of just a test fit here what everything looks like so far I think I'm going to put one more coat for the black shroud on both sides it's kind of a metallic finish and it actually almost blends in with the black that was already on the card and then we have the course a little plastic piece here that goes between this shroud and the silver heatsink I didn't realize before that the metallic paint isn't actually engine enamel but the black paint is so the fact that I painted the heatsink or the heat that you know the fins whatever you want to call this with a paint that's actually not thermally conductive might impact our temperatures a bit more than I thought so we'll have to see the worst case you learn from my mistakes you get the metallic paint that is a engine and my usually has a little ceramic bits in it and the ceramic fits conduct the heat and allow it to transfer nearly seamlessly through the paint itself from the metal underneath to the air so it's just something I didn't realize until now probably should have looked at that beforehand but I'm not too concerned I don't think this paint is gonna you know absolutely toast the heatsink I just think it would have been a better choice to go with engine enamel like the black paint for the metallic stuff so for now we're gonna let this dry again I'm gonna apply one more coat of paint before I sleep and then tomorrow morning we'll kick things off and hopefully have a finished product all right and I think I am happy with this this is day two painting usually requires two days I recommend you let the paint sit for approximately 24 hours even though it says that it'll be good within usually an hour or so just because you know when you touch the paint when it's not totally dry you can get fingerprints you can actually remove paint just by kind of smudging it and that is a result of it not being totally set in to whatever you're trying to paint but this this paint here is specifically for metal components and that's why it bonded so well I believe the same thing over here is the case but nonetheless we're going to go ahead and reinstall these pieces now with the black shroud that we just painted as well as the silver heatsink underneath we're gonna check thermals on this bad boy see how bad we messed it up because I did not buy the enamel for the metallic paint I didn't realize that I should have but I think it'll be okay I think that thermal properties aren't gonna be hindered too much and I think now that we have the yellow on black things are gonna look just a bit better also one other thing you can do while you have your graphics card torn apart is replace the stock thermal compound assuming it hasn't already been replaced so the stuff they typically put on there is pretty crappy it gets very crusty and it doesn't transfer heat very well now so applying a fresh amount of thermal compound is usually a good idea I'm going to go ahead and do this on camera just to show you how much I put on here and the idea is to put enough to spread across the entire die so keep in mind this is different than a CPU so CPU then the middle part you see on top is the IHS it's not the dye itself the Atty is underneath that and it's typically smaller than this for most consumer grade CPUs so you want to cover this entire little mirrored surface here because all of this will generate heat all right and here is the finished product I'd say this is about a 1 foot mod it's pretty good considering I'm not you know a professional painter by any means but given the tools that I had the resources that I had and the little knowledge I have about you know painting I'd say this is pretty good there are a couple places I need to touch up right here a little bit of yellow paint is nicked from removing the screws a second time around the paint the the polish here on the on the black is not perfect it's a little spotty it looks a little more metallic and shiny than I wanted but all in all I think it looks pretty good it looks better definitely than the silver before and I think that the silver underneath is a nice touch as well to complement this little spindle here in the blower style fan so now let's go ahead and install it and call it a day and all right so a couple things I want to say to end this video the first is very very important I have this link at the top of the video description just in case this will void your warranty more than likely I mean it's it's basically a done deal once you remove the screws with little pink tips in them and the manufacturers can tell that you disassembled the card after it's manufactured date that will likely void your warranty that just shows that you tampered with the card and it will just pin any of the issues that you could potentially have with the court after the fact on the fact that you disassembled it so just keep that in mind this is more of an enthusiast thing obviously if you just have one graphics card and it's your absolute sweetheart don't disassemble it second make sure to label and group all of your screws accordingly there are like 40 or 50 with this particular card usually it's a bit less than that for third-party manufacturers but you want to keep these separate and organized because you don't want to you know try to screw a particular screw into the improper thread right you could just completely strip the threading and then you can't properly mount the card back to itself right you can't mount the cooler to the PCB or the backplate of the PCB whatever so keep those organized and again remember that this will likely forward your warranty this is an enthusiast thing I only recommend it for people who are willing to take that risk that said though I'm really happy with the way that's turned out and I think Lisa is too and ultimately her opinion is really the only one that I care about in the end but I do want to know what you guys think just for future reference because you guys ultimately got me to change this way she didn't care about the silver as much but you guys did and enough of you said it to where I brought it up to her and I was like what if I painted the shroud black and she said you know what that would probably look a little better so you guys kind of gave her that idea and that's what led to this video so again critique I don't mind you know at the end of the day just don't be like just bluntly rude but give me constructive criticism I'm totally open to that stuff because I might implement your ideas into future revisions or future builds on at this channel thanks for watching you guys thumbs up if you liked it dislike it and filling up it obstacle that red subscribe button if you haven't already - stay tuned for more content like this this is science studio thanks for painting with