Gadgetory

I cannot get over how cool this lens is like it's so wide and it's not really practical for a lot of things we do but in this case at least for the introduction I like to kind of show off a little but it also makes my head look huge and it already looks huge to begin with so I'm aware of that this is my personal laptop so huawei mate book X Pro it's one of the most powerful ultra books you can buy the reason being it's got the i7 here I 78550 you I want to say I'll put up something if I'm wrong but it's a proper quad-core hyper threaded processor again it's ultra low power so it's it's not gonna compare with a desktop core i7 but the big selling point for me was the discreet graphics in here that's namely the MX 150 now I did confirm granted not on huawei's website but somewhere else that the MX much within here is the lower TV chip so it's not as powerful as the standard or whether you wanna call it MX 150 that you'll find in some beefier laptops reason being this is a very thin laptop and it's not going to be able to cool the higher TDP unit so my assumption is that just chose the lower power option not only save money but also to keep the thermals in check we're going to fix that though I mean what was already kind of ok to begin with we're gonna make it even better by applying a liquid metal to both the GPU and the CPU you're sick of seeing the same activation watermark with your shiny new rig snagging OEM Windows 10 Pro key from s CD key even if you've already installed Windows 10 on your machine you can shell out a little over 10 bucks for an authentic key that'll activate your copy click the link below and use offer code s studio for an 18 percent discount on your order so the tools you're going to need a very simple t6 Torx screws we have the CT 6 head here get this one and I got my little cobalt total screwdriver it's very convenient you can swap out the head so I'll link something like this down below and then you'll probably need something like a credit card or they have a Buster's card I'm pretty sure something on it if there is rip those tickets so about further ado it's not taking it apart ok definitely not a t6 Torx screw probably it's got to be t5 one step down hopefully doesn't t4 because I don't have that Oh perfect t5 there we go you know the may pick X Pro gets a lot of hate from Apple fans for looking oddly similar to a MacBook Pro and I agree my review of this laptop I said straight up that it looks like they ripped off Apple's design but from an Apple fanboys perspective I won't see that as a compliment I mean if it's a good design why wouldn't you copy it at least to the extent that you could get away with it liebelei ok all a Torx screws have been removed time now for the Dave & Buster's pry and I'm gonna start here in the back so it looks like the back part of this is already starting to come up just a bit let's see how easy this is I'm just kind of don't let's just pull it up at this point all right here we go and check that out so a totally custom cooling solution you see we got a fan over on this side and then we have three flattened copper heat pipes that run from this is the CPU here too the GPU which is I believe over on this side our RAM is here our system RAM and then our G Ram is right here just underneath the GPU so we're gonna take this off next so you can see what's underneath there and also obviously need to get to the dies of each so that we can apply our liquid metal solution so it looks like these are just small Phillips heads okay so there is one ribbon cable to mind it's connected for some reason to the heat shield but it ties both of these logic boards together after this is the motherboard here and it looks like this is USB yeah this is the USB a section of the laptop so keep this in mind I want to rip this and Snagit it's gonna be a pain to get back up and running anyway that is removed now we're gonna clean off that thermal compound and we're also going to clean it off of the CPU here which looking pretty messy but get some isopropyl alcohol now preferably for this section you're going to want something along the lines of 99% isopropyl alcohol I don't have any one person here I have 70% and yeah it's just your typical topical antiseptic it's gonna be good enough to get rid of the stock then we'll paste here get up as much of this as you can obviously a lint-free cloth something like that would be better for this there we go looks pretty good there and not much lint which is nice not that it's gonna really ruin anything and you notice that our GPU actually is cleaned to begin with and that's because instead of thermal paste being used we just had a little thermal pad so we could stick with this but I'm gonna swap it out anyway because the GPU does still get pretty hot under load especially a full load so we're gonna swap it anyway it's still got a copper slug there as does the CPU still copper base and these are tied directly to the copper pipe so that run around the fan so we want this contact and copper is gonna be okay at least for a few I would say a few months without a doubt well we use liquid metal all right so now that this plate is totally cleaned off what we're going to do is try to mask off the area where the copper is going to make contact with the liquid metal it'll be difficult to do there are some little traces in here and you can't really see that from that far away now but they're a little indentions here that show kind of the perimeter of where each of those dye is going to make contact with the copper we're gonna have to just get it as close as we can because you want to apply liquid metal of both sides of the copper block before we do that though we want to protect the snv's wrapping around particularly the GPU you see the dye there in the center that we've small SMD is wrapping around we want to cover these up with nail polish and that's going to prevent any liquid mountain metal spillage from shorting any of those assemblies out and that would be catastrophic for the CPU and probably the entire system so I'm going to use white nail polish I was a little hesitant at first because most people recommend clear nail polish it just looks a lot better and sometimes the paint can be reacted of this paint is not conductive or anything like that I already checked i probed it actually and then I also saw a devourer use red nail polish at one point so if you use thread I'm gonna use white it's gonna look weird but it'll do the job and so let's go ahead and just start oh gosh painting this white this is gonna look really weird all right and it definitely looks weird but it's gonna do what we want it to do that's good I did get just a tiny bit there on the edge of the dye you're gonna there we go okay everything else looks good and now we can start applying a liquid metal now for obvious reasons we're going to use conduct a knot and this is just the tried-and-true stuff I've used ever since I started getting a few years ago so now if you haven't seen this before because we do have a few videos talking about it we're gonna use this needle nose little edges like then wire applicator tool here this is gonna have to be very specific with where we apply the liquid metal and then we can use this little nozzle here to gather up any excess if we may apply it too much because it's gonna be kind of sensitive and liquid metal behaves very oddly compared to like water so you'll get to see some of that here in action now once you've added just a small little beat sized amount to each of the dyes you want to take one of these q-tips these are a little more fine and rough than the standard q-tips you can find at Walmart you want to use these if you can to kind of spread it around it's gonna behave again very weird you got to give it some force and kind of cover that upper layer which is the thin film of it and then it should spread fairly evenly so kind of play with it for a little bit I'll start with the GPU here you can see it's gonna be a little stubborn at first it's gonna want to be pushed around and it's gonna want to stay in one or two big clumps so I just keep working with it and eventually you'll get it all so be very careful we don't wanna push this over the edge okay looks pretty good let's move on to the CPU now see it's spreading very nicely on the CPU okay so the GPU looks really good I think we've got a little too much on especially that smaller die there but yeah I'm not sure if I want to try to get that up or not we've probably got a little too much here on the CPU side of things but I don't think it's gonna be too terrible even if this just runs over a tiny bit it looks like we've got plenty of room to spare so yeah add a little less than that's always good to add less and it's kind of progressively add more as you need it you guys can see this I'm going to attempt to cover I'm not entirely sure how I'm gonna do this I might just cover the whole thing with a very thin layer of it because it's gonna be difficult to line that up you could have what I could have done really was looked at the outline of the thermal paste beforehand and kind of made a mental note of that maybe taped it off but in this case I have to just eyeball it or kind of apply it everywhere so we'll see this isn't gonna look perfect but it's important that you apply a thin layer to the copper side as well so that you get that that that contact that you need from this liquid metal solution I'm gonna add a tiny bit more to this one okay it's not a perfect application but it should still get the job done yeah so I think that's where I'm gonna call it I know one thing I noticed was that there there weren't any thermal pads here around the ramp scissors sk hynix ram here for the for the GPU and then we've got our these are gonna be for gig chips here each it's a 16 gig laptop for system ram and these are also sk hynix and so there's no thermal pad or anything here for these there's no thermal pad for the I could add one I'm just not sure if adding one is going to you know mess up the the contact pressure for the the copper plate here okay cool now I dropped it straight in because I didn't want to push any of that excess liquid metal off of the die just in case and looks like everything's lined up I've got this ribbon reconnected and we're gonna slide this back into place this little bracket here there we go and yes so now we can screw everything back in all right so we're ready to go you see we have all four CPU cores showing as well as the GPU I believe this is GPU diode it's not specific and I'm pretty sure there's only one with the MX 150 and then I also have just 3d mark the window open but it's not running and then MSI Afterburner running in the background because otherwise our GPU or MX 150 is disabled so I'm going to go ahead and start and let's see how hot this baby gets under load all right so a little over 15 minutes now a bit longer than I anticipated but that's because I wanted to see if this trend here continued and it does so it actually got a little cooler at one point and it's been pretty much leveled off for the last eight or so minutes and because this is an air-cooled system obviously once it's heat soaked it's not gonna be able to dump any more heat than it already is so that's why we're seeing kind of that flat line there and I would say 70 degrees is pretty sweet for a system under full load remember this is system Ram this is the GPU the CPU FPU cache pretty much everything except for the local disks are being stressed right now and 70 degrees in a small form-factor ultra low-profile laptop like this is pretty impressive the next test I ran was 3d mark x spy and this is actually our second take here 958 our first take was 963 so a slightly lower score the second time around that's to be expected the components have been hotter for a bit longer but there was no thermal throttling of any kind as indicated by i-264 hardware utilization monitoring and that is about 60 or so points higher the average of those two scores than the previous three runs that I had with time spy before the alum application so beforehand we were between 819 about nine five so we actually got a score increase and a lot of that has to do with the fact that now our CPU and GPU are not reaching 90 or 95 degrees Celsius the MX 150 s frequency is gonna throw it a little bit anyway naturally so the higher the temperature gets the lower that effective frequency to kind of conserve itself and prevent it from overheating the CPU will do the same thing it will straight up thermal throttle past I believe I'm not sure what t-junction is for the 85 50 you it's something like 95 or a hundred degrees Celsius either way the score are definitely improved and I am very impressed thus far so that is that folks I love this laptop I love that the temperatures are now in check and there's really no throttling of any kind at this point and you saw we were stressing in i-264 during our Cinebench run during our 3dmark runs everything temp wise was in check and that's exactly what I wanted and actually it runs a lot quieter now I've noticed to the fans pulls up but it really only does so under very prolonged you know stress tests and things of that sort so a really nice improvement there if you guys enjoyed this video let me know by give this one a thumbs up I appreciate it thanks for watching thanks for the curiosity and I will catch you in the next one this is science studio thanks for watching again and thanks for learning