Gadgetory

what's happening guys seven sex toys and today we are building a beast gaming and streaming pc to game over 100 FPS in 1080p across triple-a titles now here's the thing this entire PC is gonna cost you around $1000 without the optional parts which I'll talk about in a bit I'm gonna show you guys step by step from start to finish on how to build a gaming PC I'm also gonna show you how to overclock the CPU the RAM and the graphics card I'm also gonna show you how to install windows and download the drivers and at the end of this video we're gonna play a bunch of games if you want to see the performance of this PC you can even use this video to build yourself any PC regardless of what parts you guys are using because the process is pretty much identical so if you guys want you can follow along and build yourself whatever PC you want using this video so before we begin let's go over some parts this is actually for a subscriber he reached out and he asked me to build the best possible gaming and streaming PC for about $1000 and these are the parts that I recommended him all right so the Rison 5 2600 fits the budget perfectly it's a 6 core 12 thread processor that offers the same performance as the 2600 ex after overclocked but it's $35 cheaper the extra 2 cores will help out when it comes to multitasking and encoding so it's gonna be great for streaming it's also gonna help out on video editing or any other applications I've acquire multiple cores to get a nice stable overclock we're going with the MSI B 450 tomahawk I've used this board in so many builds and I keep coming back to it because of its reliability price and features it has four dimm slots so you have the option of adding two more RAM sticks later down the road it has USB type-c support and overclocking on this board is really easy the BIOS is user friendly and I've had nothing but good experiences overclocking with this board in the past speaking of overclocking I did pick up a cooler for only $35 now this is optional but since we're spending around $1,000 I figured picking up an aftermarket cooler would be a great idea since we're gonna be overclocking the 2600 this is the hyper 212 black edition and it fits the theme perfectly and it costs only $35 you can even use the cooler that comes with the CPU regardless if you're overclocking or not the cooler comes with the Rison 5 is pretty beefy and I've seen people overclock their chip 23.9 even for gigahertz or higher just by using the stock cooler on that so that is why this is optional and it's not required for this build for RAM we're going with 2 8 gigabyte sticks from team Vulcan so total 16 gigs at 3000 megahertz which is going for only $90 right now I actually got a pretty good deal on this for storage we are starting off with a 240 gigabyte SSD from PNY his operating systems gonna go on here as well as a few of his favorite games he currently does own a hard drive but all of his stuff and he's gonna bring that over to this build once it's complete the grabbers Kartal going with is the EVGA r-tx 20 70 black edition which fits perfectly with the theme of the build and this GPU is gonna be great for gaming over 100 fps and 1080p or 1440p this build is perfect for anyone that owns a hundred forty-four Hertz or higher 1080p or 1440p monitor because you're gonna be taking advantage of the high refresh rates with these average FPS counts which you guys will see indie gaming benchmarks at the end of the video powering everything is the EVGA 600 watt bronze certified power supply and everything is going inside the deep cool Ducasse cv 2 it's actually a really good looking case with a side panel it's got a shroud to cover up the power supply and it has a USB 3 port in the front with a fan controller that lets you control up to 3 fans at the same time for 50 dollars this is actually a pretty solid case speaking of fans I did pick up four 120-millimeter fans from Roseville this only costs $14 guys believe it or not well worth the investment for better airflow and cooler temps inside your PC highly recommend this but in the end it is optional it's not needed for this build so if you guys removed the optional parts from the list like the cooler and the fans then the build will cost you only $1,000 but with the optional parts you're looking at around a thousand fifty all the parts used in this build will be linked down below I'm also going to be doing a pinned comments with timestamps in case you guys want to skip to certain parts of the build guide now with that said there are a few things that you will need for this build a screwdriver obviously I recommend the fan tech screwdriver kit because the tip is magnetic and it as an extension making it really easy to reach tight spaces I'll leave a link below if you guys want to check that out you'll also need a tray or some sort of cup to hold the screws so that you don't misplace or lose them you also need a blank USB Drive at least 80 bytes of space because we're gonna be installing windows on here and speaking of installing when those guys don't spend over $80 for a Windows copy you can actually get it for only $15 using the link below it says cd-keys comm and if you guys use the code listed below you'll get an extra 10% off so I use these guys every time I build a PC and I save a buttload of money every single time and finally obviously you'll need a large flat surface to work on preferably something that's not conductive so if you have a wooden desk then you are golden oh yeah with that said let's begin place the motherboard flat on the box and get ready to install the CPU all processors regardless of its AMD or Intel have a golden triangle in one corner you have to match that triangle with the triangle on the actual motherboard so go ahead and lift up the lever and while grabbing the CPU by its sides gently lower it down on the socket do not touch the surface or apply any pressure it should just fall in place afterwards go ahead and lower down the lever and lock the CPU in place next it's time to install the cooler I'm going to show you guys how to install both the stock cooler and the aftermarket cooler that I'm using for this build now if you're using the stock cooler go ahead and remove all four screws holding the brackets down to keep the plate behind the motherboard position the cooler any way you like just make sure that the cable can reach the fan header on the motherboard the fan can only be in two positions either the logo facing the left or the right gently lower the cooler down while aligning the screws with the mounting holes on the board proceed to tighten each screw one by one in a crisscross pattern do not fully tighten them at first just enough until all four screws are caught in the thread afterwards you can go ahead and tighten them in the same rotation until you can't anymore there is no need to apply thermal paste since the cooler does come with one but if you do mess up and need to wipe it clean make sure using 99% isopropyl and some tissue paper or coffee filter to clean the surface of the CPU okay now I'm going to show you the process of installing the hyper 212 black cooler if you're installing a different cooler just follow the instructions on the manual it's very easy to install first up you'll need to figure out what socket type your CPU is and this can always be found on the box itself this is important because you will need to know what screws you're going to be using and how to installed bracket so for my socket type which is m4 I'm going to install the screws closer to that longer piece just as illustrated so insert the screw in the hole and slide it toward the longer piece just like how it is illustrated in the manual once you're done we're gonna lock it in place using the white clip make sure the screw is in the correct position before you slide the clip on locking the screw in place go ahead and do this for the other three screws until your mounting plate looks just like mine remove the screws holding the brackets in place and this time remove the mounting plate from behind the motherboard and insert the one we just made while holding the mounting bracket with your hand carefully flip the motherboard over while making sure it doesn't fall off you're gonna need four of these to tie in the mounting plate to the board make sure to use a tightening cap to tighten the screws next we're gonna remove the fan from the heatsink by pulling on the bracket and releasing it do the same thing on the other side and remove the fan flip the cooler upside down and go ahead and grab the mounting bar and with the grooves facing towards the heatsink just like I have over here place it underneath the mounting hole and tighten the bar with a screw driver do the same exact thing for the other side as well some aftermarket coolers don't come with thermal paste already applied so go ahead and grab the thermal compound from the box and apply a small dot right in the center of the CPU remember it's always better to overdo it rather than not putting enough so don't be afraid if you think you added a little extra I like to spread my paste so that it covers the surface evenly but it's not required you don't have to do this method make sure to remove the label before installing the cooler also make sure the logo is right side up then gently lower it down while aligning it with the screws on the motherboard start by gently tightening the screws until it makes contact with a thread again do not fully tighten them just yet stick with the crisscross pattern until old screws make contact with a thread then you can go ahead and finish off tightening all four the screws now it's time to put the fan back on so make sure the sticker is facing towards the heatsink and using the same method as before pull the bracket over the fins do the same thing on the other side now this cooler comes with two extra brackets in case you want to add an extra fan in the back or push and pull that's why they gave a fan splitter cable that way you can hook up fans and then plug that straight into the motherboard but if you using only one fan like me then just plug the cable directly into the motherboards CPU fan header which should be right next to the RAM slots now it's time to install the RAM if you guys have four dimm slots there is a specific order you need to install them it's almost always labeled right on the motherboard as you can see we need to occupy the second and fourth RAM slots first so go ahead and open the locks on both sides and align the gap from the RAM to the notch on the actual RAM slot gently lower the RAM down and apply pressure on both sides until it snaps in place do the same thing for the other Ram stick and just make sure that both sides are fully locked before we place the board in the case we need to install the i/o shield make sure the text is facing the right way and apply force from inside the case until all four corners snap in place don't be afraid to apply force this part can get really annoying next it's time to put the motherboard inside the case now if your case does not have any standoffs already installed you have to manually put them in make sure to install the standoffs in the correct place so that it aligns with the holes on your motherboard the case I'm using already has been pre-installed so I don't have to worry about this gently lower the motherboard down while making sure the cutouts from the back align with the i/o from the motherboard and I'm gonna go and use these type of screws to tighten the board in place make sure you are tighten them using your wrist do not over tighten these now it's time to install the power supply in the back of the case just make sure the fan is facing downwards before you slide it in proceed to align the holes with the back of the case and start to tighten them in you're gonna need four of these screws to do that after the power supply we can install the SSD or hard drive I'll show you guys how to do both starting with the SSD remove the SSD tray from the case and position the SSD so that the ports are facing the top and make sure to align the holes before screwing them in these use the same screws as the motherboard before we slide the tray back in let's connect the cables real quick grab a SATA cable that came with the motherboard box and connect one end of it to the SSD we do to supply power to the SSD so grab the SATA power cable that's connected to the power supply which looks something like this and go ahead and route this through the cutout in the case and plug that into the back of the yes d then you can proceed to slide the tray back in and tighten it using the thumb screw installing the hard drive is the same process however this goes in the back of the PC so go ahead and remove the hard drive tray and place the hard drive on it with the ports facing the top just like before and install the screws just like the SSD it uses a SATA power and data cable so go ahead and plug those in the back of the hard drive and slide the tray back into the case the other end of the SATA cable plugs into the SATA port in the motherboard and you can find this on the far right side underneath the 24 pin okay now we're gonna install the fans that we bought for this build this part is optional so if you're not installing these then you can skip to the next part start off by removing the top panel of the case by pushing in the tabs near the back we're gonna install to the fans over here so make sure to position the fan so that the arrow is facing up since we are using them as exhaust slide the fan in from the bottom and align the holes with the case and start screwing them in proceed to install the other fan as well and once you're done you can put the panel back on the third fan we're installing goes near the front of the case and since this fan is going to be used for intake we need to position it so that the arrow is facing the left for this we need four of these longer screws since we are mounting it from the back alright now it's time for the fun part hooking up the cables starting with the 24 pin so this plugs into the 24 pin socket on the motherboard it's not hard to miss make sure that it sits flush with the socket otherwise you can have issues with booting next cable is to provide power to the CPU socket hence why it's labeled CPU this one goes on the top left of the motherboard and it's usually labeled CPU power once again make sure that it sits flush if your case has a USB 3 port in the front then you will have a USB 3 cable like this usually with a blue tip but for this case it's black this one plugs into the USB 3 header on the motherboard which is labeled J USB but be very careful with this cable because it's really easy to bend the pins if you insert it at an angle make sure you go straight in next cable is the HD audio and this one goes in the bottom-left of the board labeled J AUD by the way there's only one way that these cables get plugged in so don't worry about plugging them in correctly next cable is labeled USB and it's to power the other USB ports in the front of the this plugs into any USB header labeled jus B there are motherboards out there that have more than one so it doesn't matter which one you plug it into we can now plug the fans into the motherboard and the cool thing about this case is that it has a fan controller which lets you control a speed of up to three fans and because of this there is a splitter for three fans so I went ahead and plugged the top two fans and the rear fan into the splitter now if your case doesn't have any splitters you can plug them directly into the motherboard any of the headers labeled fan would work now since I have a total of four fans and three of them are connected to the fan controller I still have one left to connect so I plugged the fan which is in the front of the case to the fan header on the board labeled system fan if your motherboard does not have enough fan headers for all your fans you can pick up fan splitters which are sold on Amazon and I'll jump a link below if you want to check it out so the fan controller won't work unless you give it power so we have the male molex cable that's connected to the PC and plug that into the female molex connector that's connected to the power supply these are the last set of cables are gonna be connecting and these plug into the header labeled jfp one so the first cable we're gonna plug in is the power switch and this goes into the third and fourth pin on the top row for the sake of simplifying things make sure to have the letters facing towards you the next set of cables are the power LED plus and the minus the power LED plus goes into the first pin and the minus goes into the second pin this is what it looks like with all three of the cables plugged in on the first row HDD led plus goes into the first and second pin on the bottom with the letters facing towards you and right next to that is the reset switch once again make sure all the letters are facing you this is what the bottom row should look like if you plug everything correctly some cases don't have all the cables so if you're missing a few of them don't worry about it just plug in what you have we are going to install the GPU on the top PCI slot for the best performance so go ahead and remove the PCIe brackets that line up with the top slot in my case I had to remove the second and third brackets grab the GPU from the bottom and insert it in the top slot until it snaps in place make sure to tighten it back using at least one of the thumb screws grab the final cable from the PSU labeled PCIe and plug that into the graph and this is what your PC should look like after everything is plugged in you are pretty much finished and you have built yourself an awesome gaming PC the only thing left to do is install Windows download the drivers and overclock the CPU RAM and GPU all right so grab your flash drive and plug it into any PC that has access to the Internet go ahead and visit the windows media website and click on the download tool now open the program and just follow the instructions on there when you get to this screen click on create installation media and then click Next make sure to select the flash drive option and click Next again and on this page select the flash drive that you connect it to the PC it's gonna delete all the files on there so make sure that you don't need anything from it the files are going to be downloaded into the USB Drive and this process can take some time depending on your internet speed so just sit back and wait for it to complete once it's complete just hit finish and remove the USB and plug it into the PC that we just built before you power on your PC make sure the cables plugged in behind your power supply and the switch is set to the line also make sure that your HDMI or DisplayPort cable is plugged in directly into your graphics card hit the power button and wait for the PC to boot up and it'll automatically detect the USB Drive and take you to the Windows setup page if it doesn't detect the USB Drive make sure to plug it in from the back side and if that still doesn't work you have to manually boot from the USB by either hitting f8 or whatever key is assigned to it depending on your motherboard once you out the main screen follow the prompts until you get to the activate window section over here type in the windows CD key and hit next remember you can get a Windows 10 key for less than $15 through the link below and if you guys use the code TSS 2 you can get an extra 10% off in the next page you have to select which version of Windows you're installing and it's really important that this match is the same version of Windows on your CD key in my case about Windows 10 Pro so that is the version I'm selecting go ahead and accept the terms on this page and make sure to select the custom option and pick which drive you want windows to be installed on I strongly recommend picking your SSD over a hard drive for faster speeds in my case I only have an SSD installed so I'm going with that option windows will then begin installing the files to your drive and it will restart a few times so just make sure to follow the prompts on the until you get to the desktop screen now I'm going to show you guys how to download and install the drivers I will leave a link to all this down below so all you have to do is click and download them you still need internet access so find the PC that has it and visits your motherboard website and go to the support tab and select the version of Windows you are using these are the drivers that you need to download the chipset driver the onboard audio drivers and the LAN drivers if your motherboard has built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth then make sure to download those drivers as well so if you're using an NVIDIA GPU go to the geforce website and download geforce experience if you're using an AMD GPU go to the AMD website scroll down and download the auto detect tool if you want to overclock your cpu download the Cinebench r15 benchmark and h/w monitor so that we can monitor the temps now if you guys want to overclock your graphics card download msi afterburner and to benchmark the GPU we're gonna be using having benchmark once again I'll drop a link to all of this down below so it's easier for you once everything is downloaded open them up and install the files to your PC alright so now your PC is officially ready to go if you're not planning on overclocking then you're done if this was helpful to you guys dropping a like would be awesome thanks for watching and I will see you in the next one that's a kill for those of you who want to squeeze extra performance out of your PC we're gonna overclock it starting with the CPU so go ahead and restart the PC and hit the Delete key on the keyboard so it takes you to the BIOS screen once you are here hit f7 to enter the Advanced Mode and then go into the overclocking menu change the Explorer mode to expert and just copy my settings if you're using the same CPU as mine set the CPU to four gigahertz then change the XMP profile to profile one and set the DRAM frequency to match the frequency of your RAM I'm running 3000 megahertz weighted Ram so I set it to 3,000 go ahead and scroll down and change the CPU core voltage to 1.3 volts and the DRAM voltage to 1.3 5 volts this is a very safe overclock even with the stock cooler but to make sure the PC is stable we're gonna hit f10 to save the changes and then reboot the PC once you are on the desktop open up Cinebench r15 and run the cpu benchmark if it completes without crashing then that's a good sign as you can see the cpu temps are under 60 degrees which is really good if your cpu temps go above 85 degrees that's when you should start worrying about it if you guys feel comfortable you can always go back into the BIOS and increase the CPU frequency I was actually able to push my 2600 to 4.1 gigahertz at one point 3 to 5 volts just remember if the PC crashes when you increase the frequency you need to go back and increase the voltage I like to increase the voltage in small increments of 0.001 to 5 but whatever you guys do do not pass one point 4 volts on your rising to chip and make sure the temps on going over 85 degrees the best way to test how stable the overclock is is by actually gaming on it so if your PC crashes within an hour of gaming then you need to go back into the BIOS and lower the settings if you're happy with the CPU overclock we can go ahead and proceed to the GP overclock which is a lot easier so go ahead and open up msi afterburner and the heaven benchmark set the quality to ultra and tessellation to extreme and make sure the resolution is 1080p but windowed so that it doesn't go fullscreen if you want you can click the detach button on the MSI Afterburner and move the monitor chart to the right side to check out the temps go ahead and drag the power limit bar all the way to the right and hit the checkmark to save the settings we're gonna open up the heaven benchmark and hit f9 so that the benchmark starts now while it's running in the background we're gonna increase the core clock I like to start at 50 megahertz or we're gonna change it to 50 and hit apply and we're gonna wait for the benchmark to complete one cycle if it doesn't crash we can go back and increase it by another 25 megahertz and you can do this until it gets to a point where the crash is I got my GPU up 225 megahertz but as you can see the benchmark crashed as soon as I hit apply so I know for a fact that's gonna be stable at 100 megahertz which is what I left it at I could go back and increase it by 5 megahertz and probably squeeze more performance out of it but I left it at a hundred just to keep things simple now it's time to overclock the memory it's the exact same concept but this time you can do 100 megahertz increments since memory overclocks a lot easier so make sure to leave the benchmark running for a full cycle before increasing it if you're happy with the GPU overclock make sure to save your profile and hit the windows button so that way it over clocks it when you boot your PC remember if your PC crashes during gameplay you have to go back and lower the clock settings until your system becomes stable these benchmarking tools don't really compare to real-world use it's just meant to be used as a starting point as you can see this is a pretty beast gaming PC you could pretty much max out any game and still get well over 100 FPS and either 1080p or 1440p resolution I also think the bill turned out very nice with the old black stealth look overall very cool temps thanks to the extra tree fans we installed and the case design but what's more impressive is how quiet the system is while gaming and that does it for my build guide ladies and gentlemen if this was at all helpful or if you guys enjoy the video leaving a simple like with me in the world to me it took me a good week to put this video together for you guys it does take a long time so I greatly appreciate any likes or dislikes you guys can leave for this video I'm really happy with the way it turned out it's a really clean build and I know that Sergio would be happy to game and scream on this beast it is officially text or certified after all but anyways guys I'll drop a link to all the parts used in the build down below and consider subscribing if you guys enjoy content like this thanks again so much for watching and I will see you in the next one