Gadgetory

what's up guys haven't xrs and welcome to my water cooling bill guide this video is a step-by-step guide on how you can water cool your own PC using the ek RGB 360 kit this is the perfect place to start for beginners who don't know anything about water cooling or for someone that wants to water cool their current or new PC you guys don't have to stress about finding the correct tube size or the correct fittings or just running into any compatibility issues you got everything you need right here in this kit so the kit comes with a CPU block a pump and reservoir combo and of course the radiator itself now that you have two versions currently you can pick up a 240 millimeter or a 360 which is what I'm using for this build and they're also RGB so not only are the fans RGB but also the CPU block itself and of course the reservoir it's gonna look really dope inside the PC the only thing that doesn't come in this kit is a GPU block to water cool your graphics card and actually prefer that think about it what is the most common part in your PC that you guys always upgrade storage maybe Ram but mostly the GPU the graphics card is the most easiest part to upgrade you just pop it out and slap on the new one whenever you're ready so adding a GPU block will make it inconvenient to upgrade besides I feel like cooling the CPU is more important for overclocking anyways the cool part about this kit pun intended is that it's expandable if you ever decide to add a GPU block or a second radiator down the line then you'll be pleased to find out how easy it is EK sells individual blocks and radiators and all you have to do is add them to your build they provide plenty of tubing for this in their liquid cooling kit in fact this is how much soft tubing I have left after my build it's enough for a GPU block and an extra radiator if I ever need to upgrade alright so with that said let's begin the build guide these are the parts I'm going to be using for the tutorial your parts don't have to match these exact ones as long as you guys have the ek RGB kit and you are good to go either to 240 or the 360 it doesn't matter as long as it fits in your case this actually is compatible with most AMD and intel socket types which I'll list here on the screen so make sure it does match your current CPU but yeah with that said let's begin alright so before we begin the build you're gonna need the following a pair scissors to cut the soft tubing at least 900 milliliters of distilled water please make sure it's distilled and not drinking water you're also going to need a power supply bridge so that we can turn on the pump only and not the whole PC so that we can pour in the coolant and of course a funnel is strongly recommended to make it easy filling the system hey guys real quickly before I continue to build guide I do want to share this awesome deal on office 2016 you can now get the entire suite that includes office Excel spreadsheet and the rest of them for just $35 instead of paying full retail price of over 200 I'll draw a link below if you want to check it out also make sure to use my code TSS 2 for an extra 10% off all right let's start off by grabbing the parts that you will need right now which is the motherboard CPU Ram sticks and the CPU water block go ahead and remove the motherboard from its box along with any accessories you need for example the i/o shield SATA cables etc place the motherboard on top of the box make sure to always grab the motherboard from its sides so you don't end up bending or damaging any of the components on it if you're gonna install a numbed out to SSD like I am in the video then grab that and install it in the MDOT 2 slot on the motherboard in my case I had to remove the shield covering the M that 2 slot in order for me to install it alright next it's time to install the CPU so go ahead and locate the golden triangle on your CPU whether it's AMD or Intel and make sure to match that with the triangle on the actual socket cover on the motherboard open the cover by releasing a lever or levers and gently place the CPU inside while holding it on its sides make sure to not touch the surface or the bottom part of the CPU once it's fully seated lower the cover and lock the CPU in place using the levers the black plastic cover usually pops off but if it doesn't make sure to peel it right off we can put on the thermal paste now so grab the thermal grizzly paste that came with the ek CPU block and add some to the surface of the CPU I can start off with a line and spread it across the surface using a spreader but you guys can just use the P dot method in the center remember it's always safer to add a little extra than not adding enough ok now it's time to add the water block so take a look at the instruction manual to see which screws you will need for your socket type the best way to find out what socket type your CPU is using is by looking at the box itself so once you figure out what parts you need proceed with the installation in my case it was very simple all I had to do was install the four screws now before putting on the block make sure to remove the sticker underneath it otherwise it's gonna cause some overheating issues afterwards we can lower the CPU block gently down and then proceed by installing four of these Springs on each of the screws before locking them in place with he provided thumb screws just make sure not to fully tighten them just enough until it grabs onto the thread you can start with one of them and then move to the opposite corner and you can continue to do this until they are all fully tightened evenly the CPU block is RGB which means it comes with a cable that needs to be plugged into the 12 volt RGB header on the motherboard thankfully ek has included a couple RGB splitter cables you can go in and grab one of the four cables and connect it to the CPU block cable it's very important to make sure that the arrows line up on both of them alright let's install the RAM sticks next the order matters if you're installing two or more on the board with more than two slots usually the order is listed right on the motherboard but if it's not take a look at the manual and it will tell you which slots to occupy first since I'm using four RAM sticks the first slots I need to occupy for quad channel support is a1 b1 c1 and d1 make sure to align the notch on the slot with the gap on the RAM stick and gently press down on both sides until it snaps in place once all the RAM slots are installed it's time to put the motherboard inside the case first off you have to install the i/o shield on the back of the case so do that before and the motherboard I'm using in the video already has an IO shield built inside the motherboard which is awesome and convenient so I'm gonna go ahead and skip this step most cases come with standoffs already installed however if your case doesn't then you're gonna have to manually screw them on just like I am the best way to find out where to install them is by looking at the holes on your motherboard and trying to match them with the holes on the actual case itself once all the standoffs are installed to gently lower the motherboard in the case at the same time trying to align the holes on the motherboard with these standoffs on the case you're gonna need these type of screws to secure the motherboard you as looks slightly different these screws do come with the case itself once the motherboard is secured in your case it's time to hook up the radiator and the fans and this part is very important so listen carefully depending on the layout of your case and the fan configuration you might have a different setup in mind so let's take a look at the fans the side with the cable showing is the side where the air is going out from that side is the exhaust while the opposite side is intake so if you hold it to the side like this air is being pulled in from the right side and out the back ideally you want to mount the fans on your radiator so that the sticker is sitting on top of the radiator just like this now because the way my case is designed it's going to be pulling in a cold air through the radiator and out in the back so here's my recommended fan configuration for your PC option number one mounting it in the front of the case if you're gonna mount the radiator in the front then I recommend putting the fans in the front with the sticker facing the radiator so that way it sucks in cold air from the front and blows it through the radiator and inside your case alternatively you can mount them behind the radiator in the same direction now it's not gonna be as effective but there isn't really a noticeable difference in temps or if you have a space you can do a push and pull configuration what that means is you can add fans in the front for intake and also fans in the back for exhaust additionally if your case will allow it I do recommend adding one or two fans on the top of your case as exhaust you will have better airflow and this method is more effective so if you do have the space I do recommend occupying them with fans also adding an extra fan as an exhaust for the rear is a plus option number two mounting the radiator on the top of the case this configuration is very common because of how most mainstream cases are designed most people put the fans on the bottom of the radiator and use it as exhaust blowing air through the radiator and out of the case nearing the top however if you're gonna do this I recommend using at least two additional fans in the front of the case as intake so that fresh air is being pulled into the case from the side once again adding an extra fan as exhaust in the back is a plus so those are my two recommended configurations make sure to pick the best one that matches your needs and goes with the case now because of the type of case I'm I have to install the fans on the radiator itself first before I can mount the whole thing to the case so I'm gonna be using these long screws that came with the radiator to secure them also sight note make sure the cables are facing a direction where it's going to be easy to cable manage you don't want cables going across the case it doesn't look good so in my build I position the wires towards the right side so that way I can route them around the case and behind the radiator for a much cleaner look to actually mount the radiator on the case itself I have to use these smaller screws that also came with the radiator and I can tighten them from the back unfortunately due to the unique case design this radiator is too big for the case and the holes don't exactly line up for me obviously I can drill holes and make this happen but just for the sake of video and keeping things simple I only install the three of the screws just to keep it up alright so once you hooked up the rad to your case it's time to install the pump and the rest combo so go ahead and remove that from the box along with the accessories and this part is also a bit tricky because there are multiple ways to mount this depending on what your case supports but before all that you're gonna want to tighten the clamp around the pump once you release it you can rotate the whole unit in any direction you want maybe you want the holes facing a certain direction for easy access I mean whatever angle you want just make sure to lock it in place once you have figured that out you can then proceed to tighten the clamp using the two thin screws that it came with alright so here are your options for mounting the pump and res option number one using the provided pump bracket so this pump gets mounted to the bracket itself and the bracket gets mounted to a hundred twenty millimeter fan or any space that can fit a hundred twenty millimeter fan it can be on a spot on a radiator on the fan itself or in any bracket where a fan would normally be installed on it's because the holes on the bracket align perfectly with a 120 millimeter fan now you can mount the res sideways or up right but you can't mount it upside down option number one is the easiest and by far the most convenient but it's not my favorite because it's not the cleanest option number two using a clamp to hold the pump and res most high-end or enthusiast level cases have pre-drilled holes like mine to mount the clamp however EK doesn't provide a clamp with this kit unless you buy it separately you guys remembered I actually used a clamp to mount my resin pump combo on my PC if your case supports it and you do end up buying a clamp then you can just hook it up by screwing it in from the back afterwards you can attach the rest to it and tighten the clamp from the side it's very simple option number three if all else fails model yourself this is my preferred method because I would rather mount the pump directly to my case without any extra brackets or clamps it just looks cleaner in my opinion but sadly none of the holes on my case align with the holes on the pump itself so I drilled in myself the PAS brass combo comes with a template which makes this so easy just peel it off stick it wherever you plan on mounting the pump and start drilling just make sure to cover up any components nearby to prevent debris from flying into them and possibly damaging them and once the holes are drilled simply use for the thicker screws to mount it against your case from the opposite side so at this point you should have all the water cooling components hooked up to your case and now is the best time to plan your loop ideally it's recommended to put a radiator between each block but since we only have one block and one radiator it doesn't really matter so when you're actually planning the loop make sure that the in and out indicators match with the loop direction for example on the pump you can see in and out this means that the loop order has to match that order you'll see what I mean by this soon this is also labeled on most CPU blocks but this one from ek for some reason doesn't have it the left is in and the right is out so this is my loop pattern out from the CPU into the read out from the read into the pump out from the pump into the CPU block the order here really doesn't matter what's more important is the direction of the flow now that we have our loop planned it's time to finish up building the PC so go ahead and grab the power supply and install it in your case in most liner cases you have to install a PSU with the fan facing downwards if it's being installed sideways and make sure that the fan is facing outwards the power supply this come with four screws which is located in the box so use those to secure it in place if your power supply is in a very tight spot to get to I do recommend hooking up the cables first before installing it into your case this part is very easy just read the labels on the connectors and match them with the labels on the back of the PSU they only go in one way so RB it doesn't fit then it's in the wrong spot these SATA power cables are optional you're gonna need it only if you're installing hard drives SSDs or any other part that requires a SATA power cable you'll know if you need one this is a molex cable it's similar to the SATA power cable as it provides power but it has a different connector you need at least one of these to power the pump so go ahead and hook this up to the back of the power supply now that all the cables are plugged in it's time to plug the other ends to the motherboard starting with a 24 pin which goes in the 24 pin socket on the edge of the motherboard the connector is labelled CPU plug in the top of the board my board uses an 8 pin and an additional 4 pin while most motherboards just use a single 8 pin however many connectors your motherboard has I do recommend plugging them all in for better stability during overclocking you can take this time to plug in the front panel cables the USB 3 plug usually has a blue tip on it and that plugs into the USB 3 header on the motherboard while the regular USB plug goes into the USB header the plug labeled HD audio connects to the audio header which is usually on the far left bottom of the board and finally these little guys if you case has a reset switch then you'll have either one or two more cables than me otherwise in this exact same order with the words facing the top you're gonna plug these into the front panel header usually on the lower bottom right of the board sometimes this is labeled as jf p1 or something similar on other motherboards there's a total of seven pins on this header now these plug into the first four pins on the top like this HDD led and the reset switch plug in right underneath those two so before we finish up with the rest of the cables we've got to install the GPU we move however many PCI brackets from the back of the case and with the back plate facing up slide it in the top PCIe bracket until you hear it snap in place proceed to tighten the GPU by using a thumb screw we have to supply power to the graphics card so we have the cables labeled PCIe or VGA in some cases and plug those in the power connectors now to finish up the rest of the cables grab the fan splitter cable that came with the ek kit and proceed to connect the fans from the radiator these are what the plugs look like so once all the fans are hooked up we can plug the other to the CPU fan header on the motherboard which is usually on the top right if you guys have any extra fans in the cases you can either plug those into any fan header labelled CPU CH a or CPU opt or you can use another fan splitter if you have one and do the same thing like we did with the other fans now since these fans are RGB we have to plug in an extra cable so that we can control the lighting remember that RGB splitter cable that we plugged in earlier for the CPU block but we're gonna use that same splitter and plug in the three fans from the radiator the pump also has RGB lighting however I used up all four the connectors from the splitter three for the fans and one for the CPU block so how to take out another splitter just to hook up the pump lighting thankfully Ek provides two of these with the kit now once you finished hooking up all RGB cables you're gonna have to hook up the other end to your motherboards 12 volt RGB Heather the header is usually in white and has four pins so it's easy to spot but before you hook that up we move the four pins from the cable and make sure that the arrow on the cable lines up with the 12 volt symbol on the pins luckily my motherboard comes a to RGB header so I can plug the other one as well the next cable we're gonna hook up is the one for the pump this one hooks up to the pump header on the motherboard now if your board doesn't have a dedicated pump header then you can hook it up to any other fan header instead finally we have to provide power to the pump so grab the molex connector from the pump and connect it to the molex cable from the power supply alright so at this point you should have everything hooked up the only thing we have to do now is the tubing and filling it up with liquid by the way if you guys are enjoying the build guide so far tossing a like would be appreciated if it take me a full week to put this entire guide together for you alright now it's time to do the tubing so grab your scissors the soft tubing and the fittings take apart the fittings and insert the male portion inside all of the holes I know that sounds sexual but bear with me plug up the two holes on the CPU block the pump and the radiator grab your soft tube and insert one end of it into the out hole from the CPU block feel free to twist the tube in a circular movement so that it slides in easier instead of just forcing it straight in now it's time to measure and cut the beauty about soft tubing is that you can be as flexible as possible you can stretch out the tube to make it shorter and simple or leave it loose so looks more full in the build I like to keep the slack loose so that it looks more curvy so once you're happy with the desired length grab your scissors and cut the tube make sure you are cutting perpendicular to the tube don't cut the tube at an angle otherwise it won't sit flush on the fittings and can cause future leaks so after cutting the tube go ahead and grab the two fitting caps and slide them through the tube you can tighten the CPU block end and then hook up the tube to the radiator and then tighten that in as well make sure it's nice and tight to prevent leaks do this exact same thing for the other fittings measure the distance cut the tube slide in the fittings and then tighten them in place once you're done you are now ready to pour in the coolant but before that you will need at least 900 milliliters of distilled water over here I have a full gallon or 3.7 6 litres of distilled water so the way I measured it was by using an empty smaller water jug which was about eighteen ninety millilitres so I filled it about halfway with distilled water which would be around at nine hundred millilitres it doesn't have to be exact but you can use whatever method works easiest for you an actual measuring cup would be a lot easier in this instance so anyways after you have your nine hundred milliliters of distilled water in one container shake up the coolant and the smaller bottle before pouring it all into the water I do recommend using a funnel for this as it makes the filling part a lot easier okay so now your coolant is ready to pour in the system but we have to do it while it's off never turn on your PC or run your pump with no liquid in it if it runs dry it will get damaged the best way to run the pump separately without turning on your PC is by using a power supply bridge tool like I mentioned in the beginning of the video most power supplies do come at one however if yours doesn't I strongly recommend picking one up I'll drop a link below on where you can find one this basically allows you to turn on the power supply by itself without booting your actual system before anything happens connect your power supply cable to an outlet and make sure to switch off the power supply by clicking to the circle setting in the back next remove the 24 pin cable hooked up to the motherboard and connect it to this device instead pop off the top cover from your reservoir and to put paper towels underneath every fitting just in case something leaks you don't want liquid damaging your parts go ahead and insert the funnel and slowly begin pouring in the coolant this is very important guys don't rush this process and don't overfill the res it will get filled up quickly since that's turned off once there's a good amount of coolant inside the case remove the funnel and switch the power supply to the on position the pump will turn on and it will begin pushing the coolant through the loop as soon as you see it get low on coolant immediately shut off the power supply again do not let the pump run dry once you get the hang of things you can actually switch the power supply on and leave it like that while you gradually fill the res with coolant the reason why I don't recommend this method for beginners is because it's easy to misjudge how much coolant to pour in and oftentimes people overfill and then you help cooling all over the place if this is your first time stick to the first method pour in coolant stop turn on the power supply for a few seconds shut it off and then rinse and repeat until there's a steady amount of coolant left in the res don't worry if your coolant is bubbly like it is in the video that's completely normal and it will flatten out very soon this next part isn't really important but what I like to do is tilt the system on all four sides one by one to get all the trapped air inside the system out you have to be very careful not to over tilt otherwise the coolant from the res will spill out I do recommend putting the cap on the res while doing this it actually helps but make sure to leave the top hole open so that the air can escape I left the cap off on mine cars I like to live life dangerously so after removing all the air bubbles you can go ahead and tighten the cap and screw on the plug ideally you want to leave the system running for at least 12 hours to make sure that there aren't any leaks once you're confident that your system has no leaks shut off your PSU from the back and proceed to remove the bridge from the 24 pin cable and plug that back into the motherboard ladies and gentlemen you are now ready for your first boot if you follow my instructions carefully then everything should light up and you have built yourself a badass water-cooled PC if you want to customize the RGB lighting from the ek kit just download the RGB software from your motherboards driver page now I'm using the asus board so I downloaded the Asus ARA and it actually allows me to sync and change all the lighting that's connected to it so after installing the ek kit I was able to push my 78 20x to 4.7 gigahertz compared to 4.6 using the courser h 150 I Pro and the best part is the CPU is way cooler now playing fortnight on max settings in 4k resolution I was averaging between 45 to 55 degrees Celsius if you guys remember on my last build this exact same CPU was averaging 75 to 80 degrees with a lower clock speed that's 30 degrees cooler guys using the ek kit that's huge aside from the crazy low temps you also get a much quieter PC this is actually how it sounds like while gaming so that wraps up my build guide on how to water cool your PC using the ek RGB 360 kit I hope you guys enjoyed the video if you did or if you at least learned something from it dropping a like would be awesome I really appreciate it because it took me seven they used to put this entire video together it was a lot of work and I've been it for you guys also I'm gonna be rebuilding my current PC big red which is back at home using this case because when I was building in it I absolutely fell in love with it I think it looks badass it's currently my favorite case and I think it's gonna look dope on my desk so make sure to stick around for that because it's coming up in the next few months also I'll jump a link below if you guys want to check out the ek liquid cooling kit and for the people that stuck around to the end of this video you guys set through I think this video is over 20 minutes long or something crazy if you sat through this entire video then I want to award your patience so I'm actually doing a giveaway on the ek 240 kit this is worldwide you can live anywhere on this planet even on different planets I'll find a way to ship it to you all you guys have to do is visit my Instagram account and comment on the post with this PC featured in it and let me know in the comments what your specs are for your current PC obviously I want to try and make it as fair as possible so I'm gonna give this kit away to someone that can use it right now in their current PC I will require a screenshot obviously afterwards to confirm but anyways that's it the link to my Instagram account with the post is linked down below it so that twice already anyways they you guys so much for watching really do appreciate it and I'll see you in the next video you