so you've outfitted your rig with the
highest-end components your bank account
can handle and you're pushing out more
frames than an art gallery but it looks
like your system could use a little bit
more pop and that's when it hits you a
custom water cooling loop is exactly
what you're missing but what do you
actually need well first up is tubing
it's not going to work very well without
that pretty much any kind of tubing will
work 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch inner
diameter tubing are the most common but
don't go to the local Home Depot and buy
the cheap clear vinyl stuff that's on
the shelf
it will kink when you make tight bends
in between components and can stiffen
and change color over time which looks
grody and can actually make leaks more
likely to develop at the fittings the
metal is to say if you're smart adapters
between the usually G 1/4 threads on
your components and your tubing not to
mention that PC water cooling tubing has
more pizazz and some even has
antimicrobial properties though if you
really want your build to pop the hard
line tubing is also available in acrylic
and the preferred PE TG flavors for a
super clean and slick look just be
prepared to spend more money on like
tools and stuff and to deal with having
to bend and measure your runs super
accurately oh and you won't be using
standard Barb's either because hard line
tubing requires its own special type of
compression fittings so that's a lot of
guidance about tubing but what about all
the other stuff the pump moves liquid
through the system and the spec that
many newcomers get hung up on is the
flow rate the conventional wisdom
suggests you'll want a flow rate of at
least one gallon per minute to decrease
turbulence in the water but as you add
components to the loop it's actually the
head pressure rating that makes the
bigger difference bottom line from my
experience anything but a Lang D 5 or
some variant thereof is a compromise on
two blocks these sit on hot components
transferring heat to the cooling fluid
you'll find an incredible variety out
there some are made of aluminum because
it's cheap and easy to work with avoid
those because mixing incompatible metals
in the loop can cause nasty corrosion
over time even with anti-corrosion
additives and most quality components
are made of copper thanks to its better
conductive properties which doesn't
necessarily mean though that you're
stuck with that copper color nickel
silver and gold plating have all been
done with mostly good results and they
look great
through a see-through plexi top so you
can gawk at your coolant flowing through
the block now though you can get water
blocks for hard drives SSDs ran and your
motherboard someone actually made a
power supply block at one point if I
recall correctly these are really only
for show or for an extremely silent
build where there will be next to no
airflow to cool those components
otherwise the main heavy lifters are the
CPU and the GPU blocks for the CPU
honestly it's pretty straightforward
these days a socket compatible option
for many of these companies will pretty
much do the trick
but video cards are a little tougher
don't just buy a GTX 1080 block
expecting it to work on every 1080
that's out there the vast majority of
video card blocks these days cover the
GPU the surrounding Ram and even the vrm
whose layout can differ dramatically
from one manufacturer to the next
reference or founders Edition cards are
typically the easiest to find blocks for
but there are some exceptions the
reservoir is the fill point of the
system and it also holds extra fluid to
combat natural evaporation over time
reservoir options are sometimes an
aesthetic choice five and a quarter inch
bay reservoirs used to be in vogue but
two dresses are very popular these days
and other times a purely practical
decision swift xmc res micro doesn't
look like anything special but was about
the only thing that would fit in some of
the systems that I've built just make
sure you put it immediately before the
pump in the loop and don't try to use a
reservoir with a super-strong pump that
stirs up air and puts it back into the
loop making it nosy if you don't feel
like playing labyrinth with your
computer to get air bubbles out of your
blocks
finally the radiator or radiators these
along with some attached fans transfer
the heat from the fluid to the
surrounding air the larger the better
though you'll want to make sure that you
mount static pressure optimized fans
that can move air efficiently through
the tight cooling fins and you can learn
more about static pressure fans in this
video this is especially important if
you're getting radiators with high fin
density so 20 or more fins per inch more
fins means greater cooling potential but
it also means more turbulence and that
you'll need a fan that can force enough
air through them some more noise you can
learn more about radiators here which
leads us then to the bottom line is any
of this really worth it
well CPU performance isn't likely to
change much but GPUs can drop in excess
of 20 degrees and a custom loop is a
more elegant way of adding multiple
components to a water cooling system
than multiple closed-loop coolers the
most people do it more for looks or for
silence these days speaking of for looks
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